The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The blue coat afterwards came to be the ordinary livery of serving-men
in the sixteenth and early part of the seventeenth centuries, and blue
is still a popular colour for coachmen's liveries at the present day.
In a similar way we find that certain schools are called grey-coat or
green-coat schools, and we have blue schools--for instance, one for boys
and another for girls at Wells.
Then there is the Red Maid School, which was established in 1627 at
Bristol, and in accordance with the founder's will the girls are dressed
in red frocks, with white aprons and tippets and plain straw bonnets,
trimmed with blue ribbon. In connection with this foundation it may be
said that £50 is set on one side each year for the award of marriage
portions to girls who have left the school.
Our public schools afford us very interesting cases of special dresses.
Perhaps no other coat which a boy wears is so well known as the Eton
jacket. This is accompanied by a tall silk hat.
King's scholars who are on the foundation and live "in College" also
wear an academical gown of fairly ample proportions. The Eton jacket was
not always black, and originally the head-dress was a mortar-board, and
there was a broad lace collar or bands round the neck (see page 47).
The black coats and top hats were introduced in 1820 as mourning for
King George III, and have been worn ever since. The broad collar which
takes its name from Eton is probably a survival of lace bands, and is
worn over the jacket in the same way.
Very similar coats are also worn by the younger boys at Westminster and
at Harrow. In the latter case the jacket finishes off in a small point
at the back, whereas the jacket worn at Eton is cut straight. The older
boys at Eton wear a morning coat, a stick-up collar, and a white tie.
This white tie is also worn by the masters, whether they be clerks in
holy orders or not, and it seems to be a survival of a white choker
which was wound round and round the stick-up collar, though, on the
other hand, it may represent academical bands.
At Winchester the scholars wear bands, and this is no doubt connected
with the use of academical dress, for it is usual for the boys on the
foundation of public schools, as we have seen to be the case at Eton, to
wear gowns.
The upper boys at Harrow, on the other hand, wear dress-coats with
swallow tails; but should, however, a lower boy outgrow his short
jacket, he is given what is called "charity" tails.
When speeches are made at Eton, those who take part in the performance
wear dress-coats, knee-breeches, silk stockings, and buckled shoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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