The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Originally the surplice was put on over the head, in the same way as the
albe, the place of which it took, but some two hundred years ago the
surplice was made open in front and fastened at the neck with a button.
The reason for this is that in this way the surplice could be put on
without disarranging the enormous wigs which were worn during the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The cassock, to which we have
already alluded, was a long, loose coat or gown, which was worn by both
sexes from the eleventh century onwards. The name was applied to the
coat adopted by foot soldiers in the time of Elizabeth. In the case of
the laity, it was abandoned in favour of the shorter and more convenient
coat.
The black coat of the modern clergy, whom we term "the cloth," no doubt
represents it, while it is of course worn ordinarily by many Roman
Catholic clergy, and some High Churchmen, as an everyday garment, for
which it was originally intended. The row of buttons which now fasten
the long cassocks from neck to the foot have been humorously compared by
Lord Grimthorpe to the close row of rivets on a boiler.
With regard to the development of the more ornamental dress of the
clergy there is a great deal to be said. In the past, two separate
origins for it have been suggested, and to pursue either of these would
be to take us far back into history. It has been claimed, in the first
place, that modern church vestments have been derived from those of the
Levitical priesthood. The other idea is that the ceremonial dress of the
clergy was derived from the civil costume of the Romans. It appears,
however, that careful researches have shown that the decorations
which have given ecclesiastical vestments their highly ornamented
character--in which they resemble certainly those used by the Jews in
Temple worship--have been gradually acquired.
The dress of the ancient Christians was simple, and it seems likely that
owing to the poverty of the early Church rich clothing could hardly have
been adopted. Besides, for many centuries there is no mention of such
vestments as we are considering, and no records as to their having been
derived from Jewish models. On the other hand, everything points to a
more natural origin of the raiment concerned. Flowing garments, as
we have already seen, give dignity, and we find that among the Romans
such were used in dignified leisure or on occasions of state, in
contradistinction to the dress of active existence, which consisted of a
short tunic or chiton. It is with the first kind of dress that we have
to deal.
It consisted of a tunic either short or long, over which was worn the
toga which was capable of the same variety of arrangement as the plaid
which still survives. Even when the toga was given up by the people
generally, on the founding of the Roman Empire, it continued to be used
in certain cases.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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