The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
It was etiquette to wear a toga when dining with the Emperor or going
to court; advocates wore it, as did clients when they visited their
patrons, and it was also adopted at funerals and when sacrifices were
being made.
On the face of it, it would appear likely that those who ministered to
the early Christian Church would follow the general custom. Nothing,
perhaps, affords better evidence of this having taken place than an
illustration which is considered authentic of St. Gregory the Great with
his father and mother. As Mr. Marriott[26] points out, if it were not
for the Papal pallium--that is to say, the band round his shoulders--on
which crosses are embroidered, and the book of the Gospels which he
holds in his hand, it would be hard to distinguish which was the bishop
and which the senator. (See Figure 128.)
[Illustration: FIG. 128.--St. Gregory the Great with his father
Gordianus, who was a senator, on his right, and his mother Sylvia on his
left. This shows the similarity between ecclesiastical and civil costume
in early times. From an authentic picture (after Marriott).]
From this dress it is claimed, by those who have carefully gone into
the question, that ecclesiastical vestments have been developed. In
connection with this, Mr. Macalister[27] makes the following remarks:
"Fashion in dress or ornaments is subject to constant changes, which,
though perhaps individually trifling, in time amount to complete
revolutions; but the devotees of any religion, true or false, are by
nature conservative of its doctrines or observances. At first the early
Christians wore the same costume both at worship and at home. Fashion,"
Mr. Macalister continues, "would slowly change unchecked from year to
year, while ecclesiastical conservatism would retard such changes as
far as they concern the dress worn at divine service; small differences
would spring into existence between everyday dress and the dress of
the worshipper. These differences, at first hardly perceptible, would
increase as the process went on, until the two styles of costume became
sharply distinguished from one another." In this connection it will be
interesting to mention those vestments which antiquarians have traced to
Roman costume.
The albe takes its name from the _tunica alba_, which was used as a
purely secular garment until the ninth century. It was worn by all the
ministers and deacons, but as the latter had no vestment above the albe,
it came to be the special characteristic of the deacons. Usually, as the
name implies, the albe was white, but in this country coloured albes
were sometimes used.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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