The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
There are, of course, many orders, congregations, and communities of
nuns, but we may describe the dress of one of the latter, and then make
a few additional remarks. In the case of the Kilburn Sisters of the
Church, who are English Catholics--but who have dedicated their lives to
religion in the same way as the Roman Catholic nuns--the indoor dress
consists of a white cap, the descendant of the Norman chin-band, which
fits tightly round the head--as the hair of all nuns is, of course, cut
close--and it is gathered round the face with a string. This cap, if
it comes down low on the forehead, correspondingly covers the chin,
but in many cases the latter is free. Over the white cap in indoor
dress a black veil is worn in the case of professed nuns, a blue veil
by novices, while postulants, who may be taken as corresponding to
probationers in a hospital, wear only a cap, though in chapel they have
a white veil as well. Round the neck of the Sister is a white collar,
which in this case is separate from the cap and buttons on to it at one
side.
This collar, which like the veil may be traced to the wimple of Norman
and later ladies, is also called a breast cloth or a gremial, and may
be, as we have indicated, made in one piece with the cap.
In outdoor dress a stiff white hood is placed over the indoor
head-dress, and over that again comes the outdoor black veil.
It should be mentioned that the Kilburn Sisters now pin their veils to
the sides of their linen caps in exactly the same way that the dame in
the time of the early Plantagenets did her wimple to the sides of her
chin-band.
For working Sisters, the rest of the costume is a habit with skin-tight
sleeves, though there are also most voluminous outer sleeves which are
detachable and can be removed. A small cape is buttoned across the
chest, and the number of buttons corresponds with the letters in the
word "Obedience." An apron is also worn and a thick girdle, to one of
the hanging ends of which a cross is attached. Other Sisters wear a
scapular with shoulder-straps, over a white cape. Nuns are not allowed
to wear gloves, and some orders use sandals, though absolutely
barefooted orders exist.
[Illustration: FIG. 131.--The head-dress of a nun showing the veil and
breast-cloth derived from the wimple, the cap which represents the
chin-cloth, together with the frontal and the hood.]
[Illustration: FIG. 132.--The head-dress of a lady of the time of
Henry II. The wimple is shown covering the chin- and head-bands (after
Calthrop).]
[Illustration: FIG. 133.--The chin-band and forehead strap after the
wimple has been removed (after Calthrop).]
The lay sisters of the community under consideration wear a blue habit
and a white cap with flaps. Some orders, in addition to the white cap,
wear a plain band round the forehead over it, which is called a frontal,
and is seen in the dress of Henry II's time. (See Figures 131 and 133.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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