The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
As bearing on the conservatism of the Church in matters of dress, we
may mention that in Holland, until recent times, the clergy wore a
very old-fashioned dress, or perhaps it may better be described as a
picturesque uniform, consisting of an old three-cornered hat, and a coat
resembling the ordinary evening dress-coat, having a long pleated strip
called "the mantle" hooked on the neck, and obviously being a survival
from an early and more ample gown of some kind. They wore knee-breeches
buckled at the knees, and buckled shoes, but this costume was only used
when the minister was officiating at service.
Some of the heads of the churches in Scotland still adopt a kind of
Court dress.
In turning for a moment again to the everyday dress of the clergy, the
method of fastening the characteristic white choker at the back seems
to have come from the bands. Thackeray in "The Newcomes" uses the name
choker as meaning a white necktie, and it was also applied to the old
leather stocks which the clerical collar, in its stiffness, resembles.
The bishop's hat we have already alluded to, as showing the stage in a
process of cocking, the brim being tied to the crown by strings. The
clerical gaiters we can derive from the old episcopal buskins, while the
apron appears to be a vestige of the cassock to which we have before
referred.
The dress of monks usually consists of a tunic or closed gown and
scapular, while there may be one or more open gowns with a hood at the
back.
Nuns or Sisters of Mercy are so commonly seen in our streets, and
they do so much for the benefit of the poor, and take such a part in
educational matters, that their dress is very familiar to us. It is
difficult to say how old it may not be, and though stiff hoods similar
to those which are now in use by nuns were adopted by women generally
in Tudor times, we find in the head-dress of Henry II's reign the
counterpart of the linen bands which surround the face and hide
the hair. The other garments of nuns may have the same origin as
ecclesiastical vestments, for the dress of the Roman women was very
much like that of the men. (See Figures 128 and 131-133.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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