The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Some hours before dawn on the 12th, the kafilah was again loaded and in
motion across a low belt of stony eminences which gradually descend to
the Kori Wady, a long water-course, varying in width from two to four
hundred yards. Threading the moist channel of this stream, where the
foot often absolutely left an impression on the sand, and passing the
watering pool of Leile, the road ascended a deep valley to the halting
ground at Suggadera, in the country of the Danakil Debeni. The entire
borders were flanked by dwarf palms and drooping tamarisk, bounded by
low hills with cliffs of conglomerate and sandstone, which disclosed
dykes of porphyry at an acute angle. Flocks of goats, diligently
browsing on the fat pods which fall at this season from the acacia, were
tended by ancient Bedouin crones in greasy leathern petticoats, who
plaited mats of the split date-leaf; whilst groups of men, women, and
children, lining the eminences at every turn, watched the progress of
the stranger party.
A pastoral race, and subsisting chiefly upon the fermented juice of the
palm, and upon the milk derived from numerous flocks of sheep and goats,
or from a few breeding camels, the Debeni, a division of the Danakil,
are during certain months of the year engaged in the transportation of
salt from the deadly Bahr Assal to the Mudaito town of Aussa, where it
is bartered for grain. Architecture affords no term applicable to a
structure of any kind inferior to a hut or hovel, or it might with
propriety be applied to the base jumble of rough stone and shavings of
the date stalk, tenanted by these nomade savages, who are divided into
clans, and have no fixed habitations. Nevertheless there was something
cheering in the aspect even of these frail edifices, the first human
tenement which had greeted the eye since leaving the sea-coast, now
ninety miles distant. Bare, desolate, and fiery, the entire intervening
tract, although infested by the lurking robber and the midnight
assassin, may be pronounced in all its sultry parts, utterly unfitted
for the location of man.
Water of rather an improved description was obtained at Suggadera, under
basaltic rock, stained green by carbonate of copper. But not a particle
of forage was to be had; and the heat, reflected from a pebbly hill
beneath which the tent was erected, brought the mercury in the
thermometer to 118 degrees, during the greater portion of the day; and
the evil appearance of the place, surrounded by gloomy hills cast into
the deepest shadow, led to the maintenance of a vigilant watch during
the dark night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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