The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Although disturbed at the early hour of 2 a.m., and denied further
repose save on the bare ground, the loss of a camel, which was not
recovered until late, so far retarded advance, that only four miles were
achieved on the 13th. The road continued to wind with a gentle ascent
along the bed of the Wady Kori, the hills gradually diminishing in
apparent height until they merged into the elevated plain of Murrah,
which exhibited pebbles of pink quartz, with a few scanty tufts of
sweet-scented grass, yellow and withered. Here, at the distance of two
miles from a puddle of dirty rain-water, in defiance of the impotent Ras
el Kafilah, the camel-drivers, who studiously avoid trees and the
vicinity of a pool, resolved to halt, as being a place after their own
hearts.
In the dry water-course just left, the chirruping of some solitary
hermit bird, and the bursting bud of a certain dwarf shrub which clothed
the borders, agreeably reminded the traveller of more favoured climes.
But most completely was the illusion dispelled by the forbidding aspect
of the sultry plain of Murrah. Monotonous fields strewn with black
boulders, glaring in the sun, distressed the gaze wheresoever it was
turned--each cindery mass seeming as though it had been showered down
during a violent eruption of some neighbouring volcano; although, on
nearer inspection, it proved to be the time-worn fragment of an
extensive lava sheet. The bare stony plain was decorated with numerous
cairns, marking deeds of treachery and blood; and at the distance of
twenty miles rose a lofty range of hot table-land, behind which the
Abyssinian river Hawash is lost in the great lake at Aussa.
The presence at the watering-place of a host of wild Bedouins, whose
appearance was far from prepossessing, again induced the cautious elders
to anticipate an attack; and the camp occupying a very unfavourable
position for warlike operations, no little difficulty was experienced in
making defensive dispositions. A gloomy black hill threw its
impenetrable shadow immediately in front; and on the flank, a pile of
half-ruined sheepfolds, constructed of blocks of lava, afforded
extensive concealment. The night however passed away without any alarm,
and the intense heat of the day giving place to a somewhat cooler
atmosphere, admitted of sleep by turns in some comfort--parties of the
Danakil escort contriving by chanting their wild war-chorus, to keep
their heavy eyes longer open than usual.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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