The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
The next march led over the high table-land of Hood Ali, a stony level
thickly studded with dry grass, and extending in one monotonous plateau
far as the eye could reach. The fetid carrion-flower here presented its
globular purple blossoms among the crevices, and a singular medicinal
plant, termed Lab-lubba, was detected by the keen eye of a savage who
had before evinced a latent taste for botanical studies. The usual
encamping ground at Arabdera was found to be pre-occupied by a nomade
tribe of Bedouin goat-herds, who monopolised the scanty water.
Descending the range, therefore, the bluff brow of which commanded an
extensive prospect over the wide level valley of Dullool, the kafilah
halted at Suggagedan. This arid spot in the strand-like waste was
covered with masses of lava and with blocks of basalt from the adjacent
hills. It was parched by a burning atmosphere, and afforded no water
whatever--calamities which resulted in the abandonment of a horse and
two of the mules that were no longer able to bear up against thirst and
fatigue; whilst many others now dragged their weary limbs with
difficulty, and seemed but too well disposed to follow the example.
Dullool is one thousand two hundred and twenty-eight feet above the
level of the sea--a perfect flat, covered with alluvial deposit, and
studded with extensive tracts of coarse dry grass in tufts, among which,
as the almost interminable string of camels crossed the following
morning, both ostriches and gazelles were descried. It is bounded by a
bold mountain range, and the further extremity of the plain, towards the
foot of Jebel Marie, is perfectly bare, stretching away to the westward,
in one uninterrupted sheet of hard compact mud, which imparts the aspect
of the Runn of Cutch. A herd of wild asses, precisely similar to those
found on the Indian salt desert, materially enhanced the resemblance;
and the sun, which had now attained considerable altitude, casting his
rays in a full blaze over the naked plain, called up the dancing mirage
that was alone wanting to complete the picture.
On this level expanse, which terminates in a _cul-de-sac_, shut in by
high basaltic walls, inaccessible either to man or beast, the Adaiel
affect to ride down the wild ass, upon lean mules forsooth, and to rip
up the quarry with their creeses. There had been much vain-glorious
talking upon this head, but it ended, like every Danakil boast, in
nothing. The hawk-eye of the Ogre detected an out-lying mare among the
ravines at the foot of the range, and he dashed off the road with such
lightning speed, that the animal narrowly escaped being hemmed into a
corner; but once on the broad desert, and she tossed her arched neck,
kicked up her wanton heels, and laughed at the absurd efforts of her
impotent pursuers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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