The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
After much needless detention in the market-place, exposed to the
impertinent comments and rude gaze of the thronging populace, Ayto
Kalama Work, a tall raw-boned man with a loose scrambling gait and a
dead yellow eye, introduced himself as governor of the town. He
condescended in person to conduct the British guests of his royal master
to a mansion which had once boasted of himself as a tenant, but was now
in the occupation of a fat old Moslem dame and her three daughters,
whose respective appellatives being duly translated, proved worthy the
days of Prince Cherry and Fairstar. Eve, Sweet-limes, and Sunbeam, all
clothed alike in scarlet habiliments, vacated the premises with the
utmost alacrity, and many good-humoured smiles; but owing to the length
and difficulty of the road, that portion of the baggage most in request
did not arrive until midnight--when, through the officious interference
of Ayto Wolda Hana, whose garrulity had increased rather than abated, a
new inventory of effects in charge of each principal of a village was to
be penned by the royal scribe, and thus neither bedding nor food could
be obtained.
The edifice so ostentatiously allotted for the accommodation of the
party by him of the unpromising exterior, was of an elliptical form,
about thirty feet in length by eighteen in breadth, and surrounded on
every side by those tall rank weeds that delight to luxuriate in filth.
Two undressed stakes supported a tottering grass thatch. Windows there
were none. A long narrow aperture did duty for a door, and the walls,
which met the roof at a distance of ten feet from the ground, were of
the very worst description of wattle and dab--the former an assemblage
of rotten reeds, and the latter decayed by time in a sufficiency of
places to admit the light indispensable to a full development of the
dirt and misery within.
In the principal of two apartments, a circular excavation in the floor
surrounded by a parapet of clay, served as a stove. Heavy slabs of
stone embedded in high mud pedestals, and used for grinding grain,
engrossed one corner, and in another were piled heaps of old bullock
hides in various stages of decomposition. Very buggy-looking bedsteads,
equipped with a web of narrow thongs in lieu of cotton tape, assumed
that air of discomfort which a broken or ill-adapted leg is so prone to
impart. The narrow necks of divers earthen urn-shaped vessels
containing mead, beer, and water, were stuffed with bunches of green
leaves. Larger mud receptacles were filled with wheat, barley, and
beans; and huge lumps of raw beef, with sundry bullocks' heads, which
were promiscuously strewed about, garnished the floor, the beds, and the
walls, in every direction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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