The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
The inner chamber boasted the presence of mules and female slaves, who,
if judgment might be formed from the evil odours exhaled, were revelling
in the garbage of the shambles. Constructed on the slope of a hill, the
floor of the edifice throughout was of the natural earth, and dipping at
least one foot below the level of the threshold, had never known the
presence of the housemaid's besom. Equalling the filthiest Irish hovel
in dirt and discomfort, the cheerless abode could boast of no sleek
little pig, and of no pond covered with fat ducks, both being alike held
in abhorrence by the Jew-Christians of Shoa; and even the old hat was
wanting wherewith to cram the gaps through which whistled the keen
cutting blast of Alpine climes.
Fatigue soon closed the weary eyes; but the change in the atmosphere,
consequent upon the great elevation attained, presently interfered with
repose upon the damp bare floor. Rain then set in with extreme
violence. The water came tumbling through the manifold apertures in the
crazy walls and shattered roof, and having speedily flooded the sloping
court, poured over the threshold to deluge the floor with standing
pools. Although the smoke of sodden wood, unable to escape, proved an
inconvenience scarcely to be borne, there was no dispensing with a fire;
and troops of fleas and sanguinary bugs, coursing over the body, by
their painful and poisonous attacks, might almost have caused a sigh for
the execrated plains of the Adaiel, which, with all their discomforts of
watch and ward, were at least free from the curse of vermin.
But the lingering day dawned at last, and with the tedious hours of a
cold and sleepless night the rain had also disappeared. As the rising
sun shone against the lofty and now cloudless peaks, preparations were
made for continuing the journey to Ankober, in accordance with the royal
invitation; but Ayto Wolda Hana, whose presence ever betokened evil,
after wading through the compliments of the morning, proceeded with
unbending gravity to unfold the dismal tidings that the monarch had
altered his resolves. His Majesty would tarry yet some days longer at
Debra Berhan, and in consequence graciously extended the option of
visiting the court there or resting at Alio Amba, pending his indefinite
arrival at the capital.
The difficulty, not to say the impossibility, of transporting the mass
of baggage to so great a distance, in such weather, and with very
inadequate means at command, rendered imperative the adoption of the
latter alternative. Aytos Wolda Hana and Katama, with the whole of the
escort, meanwhile took their departure, to report orally the important
discoveries they had been able to make relative to the nature of the
presents designed for the throne, together with the particulars of the
quarrel betwixt Izhak and Mohammad Ali, and the respective pretension of
the rivals to the honour of having conducted the British visitors into
Abyssinia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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