The Highlands of EthiopiaHarris, William Cornwallis, Sir
History
The Highlands of Ethiopia
Harris, William Cornwallis, Sir
Ethiopia -- Description and travel
Squatted beside his foreign wares and glittering beads, see the wily
huckster of Hurrur, with his turban and blue-checked kilt. His
dealings, it is true, are of no very extensive amount, and salt, not
silver, is the medium of exchange; but there is still room for the
exercise of his knavery. The countenance both of buyer and seller
exhibits an anxious and business-like expression, and the same noise and
confusion prevails regarding an extra twopence-halfpenny, as if the
transaction involved a shower of golden guineas.
The Christian women flit through the busy fair with eggs and poultry,
and other produce of the farm. Their ill-favoured features are not
improved either by the eradication of the eyebrow, or by the bare shaven
crown dripping with rancid butter; and the dirty persons of all are
invariably shrouded in yet dirtier habiliments, from the tall masculine
damsel of sixteen summers, to the decrepit and wrinkled hag who in
cracked notes proclaims ever and anon, "_amole alliche bir_," "salt to
sell for silver."
The free and stately mien of the oriental female, and the light graceful
garment of the east, are alike wanting. The heavy load is tied as upon
the back of the pack-horse, and the bent and broken figure of the Amhara
dame is debarred by the severe law of the despot from the decoration of
finery or costly ornament. A huge bee-hive-shaped wig, elaborately
curled and frosted, and massive pewter buttons thrust through the lobe
of the ear, constitute her only pride; and nature, alas! has too often
withheld even the smallest portion of those feminine attractions which
in other climes form the charm of her sex.
The inhabitants of Argobba or Efat, under the control of the sinister
eye of the Wulasma, are followers of the false Prophet, and speak a
distinct language. Little difference, however, is observable in the
external appearance of the males from that of the Amhara subject of the
empire; and it is not until the removal of the muffling cloth that the
rosary of bright-spotted beads is displayed in lieu of the dark blue
emblem of Christianity worn throughout Ethiopia. The women, on the
other hand, are at once recognisable, no less by their Arab gypsy
features, than by their long braided tresses streaming ever the
shoulder, the ample smock of red cloth, dyed purple with accumulated
lard, and the nunlike hood of the same material, buttoned close under
the chin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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