The history and poetry of finger-ringsEdwards, Charles
History
The history and poetry of finger-rings
Edwards, Charles
Rings
§ 12. In metals the Anglo-Saxons worked with great skill. We read
of the gold cup in which Rowena drank to Vortigern. So early,
perhaps, as the seventh century, the English jewellers and goldsmiths
were eminent in their professions; and great quantities of other
trinkets were constantly exported to the European Continent. Smiths
and armorers were highly esteemed, and even the clergy thought it
no disgrace to handle tools.[36] St. Dunstan, in particular, was
celebrated as the best blacksmith, brazier, goldsmith and engraver of
his time. This accounts for the cleverness with which he laid hold of
the gentleman in black:
“St. Dunstan stood in his ivy’d tower,
Alembic, crucible, all were there;
When in came Nick to play him a trick,
In guise of a damsel, passing fair.
Every one knows
How the story goes:
He took up the tongs and caught hold of his nose.”[37]
§ 13. Ladies used seal-rings in the sixth century; but women of rank
had no large seals till towards the beginning of the twelfth.[38]
§ 14. There is scarcely a hard substance of which rings have not been
composed. All the metals have been brought into requisition. First,
iron; then, as in Rome, it was mingled with gold.
Conquerors wore iron rings until Caius Marius changed the fashion. He
had one when he triumphed over King Jugurtha.[39] And while stones
have lent their aid as garniture for metal, these too have made the
whole hoop.
We find rings of two stones; such were those which the Emperor
Valerianus gave to Claudius.
Near to the Pyramids, cornelian rings have been discovered. Rings of
glass and other vitreous material have been found. Emerald rings were
discovered at Pompeii, also glass used instead of gems. Some made
entirely of one stone, as of amber, have been obtained.[40]
With the Egyptians, bronze was seldom used in rings, though
frequently in signets. They were mostly of gold and this metal seems
to have been always preferred to silver.
Ivory and blue porcelain were the materials of which those worn by
the lower classes were made.[41]
An ancient ring of jet has been dug up in England.
There were some rings of a single metal, and others of a mixture
of two;[42] for the iron, bronze and silver were frequently gilt,
or, at least, the gold part was fixed with the iron, as appears
from Artemidorus.[43] The Romans were contented with iron rings a
long time; and Pliny assures us that Marius first wore a gold one
in his third consulate. Sometimes the ring was iron, and the seal
gold; sometimes the stone was engraven, and sometimes plain; and the
engraving, at times, was _raised_, and also _sunk_. (The last were
called _gemmæ ectypæ_, the former _gemmæ sculpturâ prominente_.)
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