The history of drink : $b A review, social, scientific, and politicalSamuelson, James
History
The history of drink : $b A review, social, scientific, and political
Samuelson, James
Drinking of alcoholic beverages -- History; Temperance -- History
Morewood mentions that numbers of carts loaded with raki entered Pekin
daily in his time, and that the liquor was distributed over 1000 taverns;
but it should be stated that this proportion of public-houses to the
total number of inhabitants is very small compared with those of England,
and in China there is no restriction whatever on the sale of intoxicating
drink. The Chinese public-houses are, moreover, not mere drinking-shops,
but wherever a number of guests are assembled, they usually partake of
solid food as well as drink, and during their meals they are entertained
with comedies or musical performances. Private drinking parties, called
wine clubs, are, however, not uncommon, especially amongst young men, who
assemble at each other’s houses or at such places as may be selected, the
expenses being defrayed by the members in rotation. On such occasions the
day is spent in feasting, wine-drinking, card-playing, and such other
amusements as may be suggested by the host for the time being.[49] The
liquors drunk are distilled from red and white rice (which impart to
them their colours), and sometimes from potatoes, beans, or sugar-cane.
The juice of the grape is not used, and the Chinese native wine is in
reality whisky, which is drunk hot from cups of small dimensions.[50] The
latter fact does not, however, necessarily limit the quantity of liquor
consumed, for in some cases thirty or forty rounds are drunk.
The older people have similar feasts in connection with their trade
guilds, of which interesting descriptions have been given both by
travellers and residents. One of the latter, Mr. Giles, who was long
connected with the British Consular service, has published a graphic
account of modern China, in which he gives minute details of these social
gatherings. On one occasion he was present at a Chinese dinner-party of
six native gentlemen, who occupied seats at what he calls a four-legged
“eight fairy” table. Before each guest there was a pair of chopsticks,
a wine-cup, a small saucer of soy, a two-pronged fork, a spoon, a
tiny plate divided into two separate compartments for melon seeds and
almonds, and a pile of small pieces of paper for cleaning these various
articles as required. On the table was a kind of dessert consisting of
dried fruits as with us, and in the centre there were slices of ham,
sardines, &c., as is the custom in Sweden, Norway, and Russia. “Wine,” he
says,[51] “is produced the first thing, and poured into small porcelain
cups by the giver of the feast himself. It is polite to make a bow and
place one hand at the side of the cup while this operation is being
performed. The host then gives the signal to drink, and the cups are
emptied instantaneously, being often turned bottom upward as a proof
that there are no heel-taps. Many Chinamen, however, cannot stand even a
small quantity of wine, and it is no uncommon thing, when the feast is at
an eating-house, to hire one of the theatrical singing-boys to perform
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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