The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The “Journal de Verdun,” October, 1724, writes in the same spirit as Père
Duguet: “In former times mothers used to take exceeding pains that their
daughters should have slender and supple waists; but at the present day
the vertugadins of Spain and Italy have been introduced into France under
the name of paniers; this is a fashion conducive to false modesty.” But
the ladies in this instance, also, heard and heeded not, and the “Journal
de Verdun” after a time discontinued its attacks.
Many cases of conscience were argued out between Jesuits and Jansenists
on the subject of paniers. One member of the Society of Jesus wrote a
little work called “L’Entretien d’une Femme de Qualité avec son Directeur
sur les Paniers.” It was published in 1737, and is a very scarce and
curious little book.
An anonymous pamphlet had been published in 1727, entitled, “Satire sur
les Cerceaux, Paniers, Criardes, et Manteaux Volants des Femmes, et sur
leurs autres ajustements.” The author expatiates on his hatred of cages,
and of showy dress.
A pamphlet published in Paris in 1735, and entitled, “Indignité et
Extravagance des Paniers pour des Femmes Sensées et Chrétiennes,”
contains the following lines:—
“But I wish to know, ladies, by what evil genius you are possessed,
and what can be your opinion of us, that you endeavour, when in such
deplorable case, to pass yourselves off to us and to the eyes of the
Christian world as spiritual and devout persons, while you are laden
with an immense and superb panier that takes up the room of at least six
persons, and is the miserable cause of the inconvenience you experience
in passing along, having to hold your panier in both hands, and
displaying wooden hoops under an arrogant and splendid skirt....
“Is it not the said panier also that makes your carriages groan, and that
bulges through them like the sails of a ship, while you are holding your
noble wooden hoop in both hands, and displaying it beneath a costume that
is a scandal to the Church, and a laughing-stock to the whole world, and
that insults the magnificence of our altars by its audacious splendour?”
Ridicule, argument, and religion were all in vain; neither the women of
Paris, nor those of the provinces, changed their mode of dress in the
slightest degree. They even laughed at Voltaire and his lines:—
“Après dîner, l’indolente Glycère
Sort pour sortir, sans avoir rien à faire.
On a conduit son insipidité
Au fond d’un char où, montant de côté,
Son corps pressé gémit sous les barrières
D’un lourd panier qui flotte aux deux portières.”[44]
History has probably forgotten a considerable number of the appellations
bestowed on paniers; but some have been retained, such as “paniers à
guéridon,” or “extinguisher shape”; and “à coudes,” or “elbow paniers,”
on which the elbows might be supported.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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