The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The fashion prevailed so generally, that our trade with Holland
was materially augmented. In June, 1722, the States-General of the
Netherlands authorized a loan of 600,000 florins in support of a “company
established in East Friesland for the whale fishery, the trade in which
increased daily by reason of the demand for whalebone used in the
construction of hoops for women.”
We see here that the result of the polemical discussions described above
was twofold. Paniers became a question of interest to Europe, and a
source of profit to Holland.
The “Journal de Barbier” observes: “It will scarcely be believed that
the Cardinal de Noailles has been much exercised with regard to the
paniers worn by women under their skirts in order to make them stand out.
They are so large, that when the wearer sits down, the whalebones being
pushed fly up in an extraordinary manner, and armchairs have had to be
constructed expressly for them. The largest boxes at the theatre will now
hold only three women. The fashion has been carried to an extreme, and is
consequently quite extravagant; so much so, that when the princesses take
their seats beside the queen, their skirts rise up, and quite conceal
those of her majesty. This appeared like an impertinence, but it was
difficult to find a remedy. At last, by dint of reflection, the cardinal
invented an expedient—there should always be one armchair left empty on
each side of the queen, who would thus be spared any inconvenience.”
Mdlle. Jaucourt played the part of Galatea in “Pygmalion” in 1775, and
wore a polonaise with paniers, satin slippers, and a colossal “pouf”
ornamented with green leaves, and surmounted by three ostrich feathers.
MM. de Beauvau, De Guéménée, De Pompadour, and others, had supplied her
wardrobe. A great number of the court ladies sent her beautiful dresses,
made by themselves, and worn at the Dauphin’s marriage, that she might
appear in them on the stage. Louis XV. presented her with a theatrical
costume.
In November, 1721, he had given Mme. de Seine, an actress of the Comédie
Française, a coat worth 8000 francs. Nine hundred ounces of silver were
woven into the material.
At about the same time the Comte de Charolais presented Mdlle. Delisle
with a costume of pure silver, worth 2000 crowns, in which she danced a
“pas” in the ballet of Pirithoüs.
Mdlles. Clairon and Hus, of the Comédie Française, gave up wearing on
the stage “the awkward machine called a _panier_,” and a little book was
published shortly afterwards, called “Les Paniers supprimés au Théâtre.”
Some ladies of high rank followed the example of the two celebrated
actresses.
Mdlles. Clairon and Hus had exercised more influence than preachers,
pamphleteers, or journalists!
Actuated by a hatred of paniers, a poetaster wrote in praise of corsets,
and women discarded one folly for another.
“Est-il rien plus beau qu’un corset,
Qui naturellement figure,
Et qui montre comme on est fait
Dans le moule de la nature?”[45]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account