The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
In the course of the following year, 1790, the Federation at the Champs
de Mars was commemorated by the creation of the Federal uniform for
ladies by a dressmaker of the Palais Royal. Fans “à la fédération”
were on sale, and women, joining in the movement, wore hats in honour
of “the nation and the charms of liberty,” with flowers, feathers, and
tricoloured ribbons.
I might give many more examples, for each event of the Revolution was
marked by a corresponding innovation in dress, but let it suffice to
state that at the period of which I am speaking, the whole theory of
fashion was based on the assumption of equality in dress. This may be
proved by referring to an engraving of the time, that I have published in
my “Histoire-Musée de la République.”
All classes were commingled, willingly or unwillingly, through love or
through fear; and many wealthy persons rigidly adopted simple attire.
It is easy to understand the effect of this state of things on Fashion.
The Revolution had proscribed gowns of silk or white muslin, as recalling
too vividly the attire of the Ancien Régime. The Republican style of
garment entirely enveloped the wearer, and gracefully defined the figure.
It was fastened with buttons, and a sash “à la Romaine” was knotted on
one side. The effect, taken as a whole, was charming. Jouy cambric was
the material usually adopted; the “déshabillé à la démocrate,” however,
allowed of a “pierrot” in brownish-green satin.
The reign of Rose Bertin had ceased with that of Marie Antoinette.
But although the queen of France found no one to take her place, that of
the queen of Fashion was aspired to by a Mme. Rispal, who, advertising in
the “Journal de Paris,” “offered a choice of dresses ‘pékin velouté et
lacté’ (velvety and milk-like), in African silk and in Chinese satin.”
She undertook, moreover, to make up caracos “à la Nina,” “à la Sultane,”
and “à la cavalière;” short skirts “à la Junon” and “à la Renommée;” and
gowns “à la Psyché,” “à la ménagère,” “à la Turque,” and “au lever de
Vénus.”
The above were republican garments, of which the cost bore no comparison
with that of dress in the eighteenth century.
But the reaction of Thermidor was followed by a reaction in dress; and
under the Directory, when the Terror was over, women went from one
extreme to the other, and spent ruinous sums in flowers, jewellery, and
diamonds.
In this respect the year 1795 is a remarkable one. Were the fashions of
Louis XV.’s time about to return? Were red heels, paniers, powder, and
patches “coming in” again? Well, not absolutely; but the return to things
of the past was manifested in many ways, and the more so because the
number of parties, balls, and concerts was simply incalculable.
The imitation of the classical dress worn by the Greeks and Romans
produced the “incroyables” and the “merveilleuses,” the mere pictures of
whom seem to us at the present day like caricatures, and afford us some
idea of the extraordinary freaks of Fashion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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