The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Women either wore caps “à la Charlotte Corday,” a shape that is well
known at the present day, or went bare-headed, or wore at most a Greek
fillet, or a “baigneuse” trimmed with a large tricoloured cockade, and
showing the hair turned up in a chignon. Expensive costumes were very
rarely seen. “Déshabillés” in coloured Jouy cambrics, Madras kerchiefs,
or small red ones, took the place of brocades and silks and velvet
caracos.
Yet Fashion contrived to respond to all the events of the time. The
smallest trifle that attracted the attention of the masses was instantly
turned to account in some adjunct of dress. Was a rhinoceros or an
elephant exhibited at the Jardin des Plantes. Instantly caps were
manufactured “à l’éléphant,” or “au rhinocéros.”
A swallow pursued by a sparrow-hawk having fallen to the ground on the
Pont Neuf, a head-dress “à l’hirondelle” was forthwith invented. It
consisted of two little gauze wings stretched on steel springs, which
fluttered at each side of the head with the lightest breeze. A Chinaman
came to Paris, and immediately there was a rage for hair dressed “à la
Chinoise,” and for pointed shoes. Crescents were worn in the hair, in
honour of the Turkish ambassador’s arrival in the capital.
With regard to jewellery, the case was the same. On the taking of the
Bastille, small fragments of its stones were set in gold or silver,
and worn as necklaces, bracelets, and rings. The well-known Mdlle. de
Genlis wore a locket made from a stone of the Bastille, cut and polished,
and bearing the word “Liberté” in brilliants; above this a diamond
represented the planet that shone on July 14, and round the locket was a
laurel-wreath in emeralds, fastened by the national cockade in precious
stones—blue, red, and white.
The fashions “à la Bastille” lasted for some time. The cap “à la
Bastille” represented a doubly castellated tower in black lace.
A favourite head-dress was a hat, with a spade, a sword, and a cross
embroidered in green silk, surrounded by olive branches; symbolic of the
three estates—the nobility, the clergy, and the “third” (tiers)—as they
met in the Constituent Assembly.
Fashionable Frenchwomen adorned themselves with jewels “à la
Constitution,” also known under the name of “Rocamboles.” Their
so-called “Constitutional” earrings were of white glass, in imitation of
rock-crystal, and bore the word “Patrie.” A very large bouquet, “à la
nation,” was worn high up on the left side, composed of flowers of the
three colours, mingled with a profusion of myrtle.
A costume “à la Constitution” comprised a helmet-shaped cap of black
gauze, a cambric neckerchief, a vermillion sash, and a very fine cambric
gown covered with little bouquets of white, blue, and red flowers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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