It was difficult to tell from the appearance of these ladies whether they were Greek, Turkish, or French women. The over-transparency of their attire gave rise to the following song, by Despréaux, in eight verses, of which I transcribe the first only:— “Grâce à la mode On n’a plus d’cheveux (_bis_); Ah! qu’c’est commode! On n’a plus d’cheveux On dit qu’c’est mieux!”[54] The fashions of the Directory, especially the transparent dresses, remained in favour during the early part of the Consulate. We may mention the following novelties: Jewish tunics in organdy muslin or silk, light or dark blue, buff or striped; drawn bonnets in organdy, and straw bonnets with “chicorée” trimming. Long hair was a thing of the past; every woman wore her hair “à la Titus,” and covered the cropped skull with false hair, “cache-folies,” or “tortillons.” [Illustration] [Illustration: Empire 1804 Directory 1795] CHAPTER XXI. REIGN OF NAPOLEON I. 1804 TO 1814. Fashions under the Empire—Sacks—“Personnes cossues”—A saying of Napoleon’s—White gowns—Valenciennes lace—Ball dresses; walking dresses—Polish “toquets” and bonnets—Turbans—Muslins—Artificial flowers—Wenzel’s manufactory; “The Offspring of Imposture,” Campenon’s verses—Parisian ladies, as sketched by Horace Vernet—Stays—Cashmeres—Protest by Piis—Ternaux assists in establishing the manufacture of cashmere shawls in France—Cotton stuffs—Richard Lenoir; importance of the Rouen manufacture—Violets during the Hundred Days—The “eighteen folds,” and white silk. Under the Empire, which was proclaimed in 1804, the fashion of short waists continued in favour, and even developed into extraordinary results. The fair sex adopted “sack” dresses, with the waist close under the arms, and the bosom pushed up to the chin. This was far from graceful, and a woman needed to be perfectly beautiful to look well in such a costume. Gold, precious stones, and diamonds were lavishly used. Numerous balls were given, and official receptions held, and the dress of the women was handsome, nay, even magnificent. Unfortunately, it was chiefly remarkable for its bad taste. A Frenchwoman seemed to have attained the height of glory when it could be said of her: “Voilà une personne cossue!”[55] Napoleon wished his court to be splendid, and was accustomed to rebuke ladies who committed the sin of economy. “Madame la Maréchale,” said he one day to a lady, “your cloak is superb; I have seen it a good many times.” She took the hint. Extravagance prevailed in every class of society, we might almost say “By order.” Towards the same period, Gérard’s picture of Love and Psyche brought pallor into fashion. Rouge was altogether abolished, white pearl-powder was universally used, and women tried to be interesting by making up their faces “à la Psyché.”