The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
This departure from the ways of the eighteenth century did not prevent
Frenchwomen from continuing to borrow some few fashions from foreign
countries and other times, viz. Palatines from the north, Falbalas from
the reign of Louis XV., and some minor accessories from Spain, Italy,
Turkey, and England.
For the most part women wore fronts instead of their own hair, and
diamonds in place of flowers. They were above all anxious to show off
their wealth. Many of them were parvenues who sought to do honour to
their husbands’ position.
Yet the white gowns with spiral trimming of pink satin, and a wreath
of brightly coloured flowers round the bottom of the skirt, must have
been pretty. The bodice was fastened on the shoulders by many-coloured
ribbons, and trimmed at the neck with Valenciennes lace of great cost.
The bare arms were covered with long white gloves; round the throat was
a necklace of real pearls, and on the hair, worn in curls, a wreath of
roses.
Such a dress as the above was for ball-room wear; the skirt was short,
revealing the ankle and foot in a white satin shoe.
Walking costumes were much the same as to shape, with the exception of
the skirt, which was very long. They were much heavier by reason of the
kerchief round the neck, and the shawl covering the shoulders. Dresses
were worn “à la Jean de Paris,” an opera by Boïeldieu; the hair was
dressed “à la Chinoise,” with gold pins, from which hung little gold
balls.
With the same style of hair, the “cap-bonnet,” trimmed with feathers,
was fastened under the chin with silk strings. There were toquets of
embroidered tulle, and hats “à la Polonaise,” of a somewhat ungraceful
square shape; turbans also in clear muslin spotted with gold, and
turban-caps, both souvenirs of the Napoleonic victories in Egypt. How
many fine ladies resembled Mamelukes!
Some women wore cloth, merino, or velvet coats; and almost all
excessively short waists. Their gowns were indecently low. High gowns
made without fulness were frequently trimmed with many rows of flounces
or falbalas.
From the beginning of the century, the manufacture of muslin, which is
said to be so named from the town of Mossoul, had been greatly developed
at Tarare and St. Quentin.
In addition to this, the principal innovation of the period was the
definitive introduction of artificial flowers, which, until then, had
only been occasionally employed in feminine attire.
The Italians had long possessed the art of producing artificial flowers,
and had practised it with great success; but in France this branch of
industry had only been introduced in the year 1738. A man named Séguin,
a native of Mende, and a very clever chemist and botanist, succeeded in
manufacturing artificial flowers quite equal to those of Italy. He also
made them after the Chinese method, from the pith of the elder-tree; and
he was the first to invent a sort of flower made of silver-leaf, which
has been much used to ornament feminine attire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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