The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
White gowns, trimmed at the bottom with flowers, were generally worn both
at official and private balls. Flowers, roses for the most part, were
worn in the hair. Plaid dresses were in fashion, dresses “à l’indolente,”
and dresses trimmed with chinchilla.
Dresses were made in various styles. Sometimes sleeves were short and
puffed, and trimmed with several rows of ruching; and sometimes they were
funnel-shaped, that is, there was a certain amount of fulness at the
shoulder which gradually diminished as they reached the wrist, where they
were hermetically closed by a ribbon over a coloured kid glove.
Dresses were cut “low,” and necklaces of pearls or garnets were worn.
When the sleeves were short, long gloves concealed the arm, and the
effect was very pretty. Embroidered “toques” were also in fashion,
ornamented with pearls and a wreath of marabout feathers.
Long gloves were expensive; but no well-dressed woman hesitated to put
on a new pair every day, a soiled glove not being admissible. Tan was a
favourite colour.
Valuable jewels, wide bright-coloured sashes, delicate fans, and
embroidered or braided reticules completed the attire, and gave it
character as well as intrinsic worth. Married women wore little
half-handkerchiefs tied round the throat, and young girls wore
apron-dresses (tablier-robes) entirely in white.
The hair was arranged in little curls close round the forehead and
temples, and in small rolls at the back of the head. Artificial flowers
were used, but sparingly.
Bonnets were made without curtains, and were worn rather tilted forward
over the face, so as to display the chignon and neck; they were trimmed
with artificial flowers. Large chip hats and white feathers were
purchased at Herbault’s, who also sold small white satin ones, the brims
of which were cut into points or squares, and surmounted with marabouts.
Other milliners manufactured “cornettes” in black velvet, edged with
white tulle; they even placed black hats on white “cornettes.”
Many dresses were made of fine white merino, with wide stripes of dead
silver, called “chefs.” White merino boots, laced at the side, completed
the costume.
During the first few years of the Restoration our fair countrywomen
indulged in various successive caprices. The “Journal des Modes” from
1814 to 1815 holds up the most extraordinary fashions to our admiration.
Women, moreover, were seized with Anglomania. A caricature of the time
represents “Mme. Grognard” trying to force her daughter to dress herself
“à l’Anglaise.”
The young girl replies,—
“Gracious! how frightful! What dreadful taste! To think of wearing
English fashions!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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