The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The Revolution of July, 1830—Fashions in Louis
Philippe’s reign—Microscopical bonnets, called “bibis,”
“cabriolets”—Variety of caps—Fashions of the Middle Ages and
of the Renaissance—The stage—Historic costumes—Influence of
Rachel, the actress—Greek and Roman fashions—Colours—Various
designations of materials—Bedouin sleeves—Bonnets and
head-dresses—Pamela bonnets—Novel eccentricities—Taglioni
gowns, gathered “à la Vierge,” laced “à la Niobé,” &c.—The
“Sylvestrine”—Costumes to be worn on occasions of attempts on
the king’s life—Bouquets for balls.
The Revolution of July 1830 did not produce nearly so much effect on
dress as that of 1789.
In the reign of Louis Philippe, as in that of Charles X., feminine
costume changed but little. Fanciful adjuncts of dress succeeded one
another without interruption, but the basis of dress in general remained
the same. Microscopical “bibis” took the place of the enormous bonnets
that under the name of “cabriolets” had been the delight of Parisian
ladies in 1835; and dress-caps were manufactured in a variety of shapes,
and under a variety of names, viz. the Charlotte Corday, the peasant,
the nun, the Elizabeth, the châtelaine, the Marie Antoinette, the polka,
&c. But the only striking novelties were the nets “à la Napolitaine,”
the “steeple-chase” rosettes placed below the ears, the Armenian toques
“à pentes” (or sloping), the Catalan half-caps, the fringed Algerian
head-dresses, and the white and gold Jewish turbans with strings “à la
Rachel.” These turbans were taken from Mdlle. Falcon’s stage dress in
Halévy’s opera of “La Juive.”
The greatest novelty consisted in the colours chosen for dress. The
“Snow” head-dress was named after Auber’s work; gowns “à la Dame
Blanche,” after that of Boïeldieu; and caps “à la Fiancée,” also after
Auber. To these succeeded various colours, called “Solitaire,” from
Carafa, or the “Petites Danaïdes,” and “Robin des Bois.” Dark and sober
tints were worn in preference to brighter hues, for no other reason than
the romantic ideas of a period in which both men and women delighted in
appearing melancholy, Byronic, and sickly.
The effect of the Romantic School on Fashion may be easily imagined.
The early works of Victor Hugo and Lamartine had kindled the popular
imagination, while Scott’s novels and Byron’s poems had everywhere
fostered ideal sentiments.
Reveries, suffering, sacrifice, and boundless self-devotion were the
themes of the day, and fair ladies voluntarily shed tears, because to
weep was fashionable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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