The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
I, the writer of these lines, have known many young girls quite
distressed by their healthy appearance, their rosy cheeks, and fresh
complexions. “It looked so common,” they said. As if the brilliant
colouring of nature were not the incomparable source of all beauty. More
than one young girl who longed to look consumptive, ended by becoming so
in reality, by dint of depriving herself of proper nourishment, which she
feared might make her grow stout and “material.”
The return to the Middle Ages was likewise manifested by numerous
costumes taken from the periods of which we treated at the beginning of
this history.
Who is that lady? Is she the Châtelaine of Coucy? She wears a long train,
an enormous pearl necklace, and hanging sleeves like those of Marguerite
of Burgundy; the alms-bag suspended from her waist, and her carved
jewellery, make her resemble a woman of the fourteenth century. Not so,
however. She is the wife of a rich shopkeeper, and has been present at
the performances of plays by Victor Hugo and Alexandre Dumas.
Does not that other fair lady belong to the court of Charles VI.? No; you
make a mistake. She has only insisted on her milliner dressing her like
Mdlle. Georges in her stage dress of Isabeau de Bavière, the principal
character in the play of “Perrinet Leclerc.”
Not only the public resorts of Longchamps and the Tuilleries, but the
French and Italian Opera Houses, the Opera Comique, the Théâtre-Français,
and the large theatres of the Boulevards exercise the greatest influence
at the present day over the caprices of Fashion. An extraordinary
discrepancy exists between the character of women and the garments they
choose to wear. A sweet and gentle girl has her hair dressed like that
of the infanticide Norma, and the best of mothers seeks to imitate the
costume of that arch-poisoner, the Marquise de Brinvilliers.
Masked and fancy-dress balls were crowded with historical characters,
from Frédégonde to Mary Stuart, and from Catherine de Médicis to
Charlotte Corday. The Greek and Roman styles were replaced by those of
the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.
We find the following paragraph in a Review of 1834: “Fashions, like
Empires, have their Revolutions, which in former times were slow and
gradual; but at the present day they follow the spirit of the age, and
share in its instability. Each century was formerly stamped in the same
image, and the dress of our forefathers might have served, in a certain
sense, to mark the dates of our history. But at the present day, Fashion,
greedily seeking after novelty, appeals to every era and every period,
borrowing from each, and only takes possession of one costume in order to
throw it aside for another, in a few months, or weeks, or even days.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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