The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The beautiful Mme. de Sampajo, the attached friend of Louis Philippe
and his family, was enumerating, on one occasion, all the costumes she
provided herself with at the beginning of each year.
“I was forgetting,” she said, “to mention my dress for the days on which
the king or his family are fired at....”
It is a fact that regicides abounded under the Monarchy of July; and
as often as Louis Philippe escaped unhurt from some attempt on his
life, ladies would hastily dress themselves in some simply shaped,
dark-coloured costume, and present themselves at the Tuileries, to offer
him their congratulations.
Such costumes were always kept in readiness in a wardrobe, and were known
as “costumes for days on which the king’s life is attempted.”
In the annals of fashion, the reign of Louis Philippe is remarkable
only for “romantic costume” at first, and afterwards for the “classical
costume” inspired by Rachel. It must not be inferred, however, that the
reign of Fancy had ceased to exist. Many trifles, light and fragile as
roses, exist like roses, for one day only. And every woman is the willing
slave of Fashion, however extraordinary it may be, so that by dressing
like others, she may avoid the appearance of singularity.
A sort of rivalry existed in 1834, concerning bouquets for balls. Five
or six camelias, mixed with green leaves, were placed in the centre of
a pyramidal nosegay consisting of violets, ferns, and small hot-house
flowers. These bouquets were placed in a gilt or jewelled holder, to
which was attached a ring and chain; the bouquet, therefore, might be
allowed to fall, and would yet remain suspended to the finger.
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE SECOND REPUBLIC.
1848 TO 1851.
Tricoloured stuffs of 1848—Girondin mantles—Open gowns—Summer
dresses—Kasawecks and their derivatives—Beaver bonnets; velvet
bonnets, and satin or crape drawn bonnets—Cloches, Cornelia,
Moldavian, and Josephine cloaks; mantles—Isly green—Opera
cloaks—Numerous styles of dressing the hair: à la Marie
Stuart, à la Valois, Léda, Proserpine, and Ceres—Marquise
parasols—Jewellery—Straw bonnets—“Orleans” and “armure”—Work
reticule or bag—“Chinés”—Pagoda sleeves—Waistcoats; basque
bodices—New and economical canezous.
The Revolution of 1848 lasted too short a time to effect a change in
dress. There is little to remark in that transient period, beyond the
adoption of tricoloured materials in remembrance of 1830. Tricoloured
ribbons were worn on caps, and on a few bonnets. For some months Girondin
cloaks, with three rows of shaded lace, were in fashion; the cloaks were
of muslin, and trimmed with frills worked in button-hole stitch. Bronze
was the favourite colour for mantles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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