The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The year 1848 was like its forerunner. The same materials, the same
bodices, and the same sleeves continued to be worn. Small mantles called
“grandmother,” and others, shawl-shaped, with little sleeves and three
flounces, and others again, rounded behind, and trimmed with fringe or
deep lace, were fashionable.
Gowns were made open in front, with low square-cut Raphael bodices, the
front and back gathered; and Marie Stuart head-dresses were worn. As the
light material of summer costumes was found trying to delicate persons,
kasawecks or casaques, imported from Russia, were worn over them in the
evening.
The kasaweck was a sort of jacket coming below the waist, with a
tight-fitting back, and wide, braided sleeves. The fronts were made
loose, or to fit tight, according to taste. The Russian kasawecks were
lined with fur, but ours were simply wadded. They were sometimes made of
velvet and satin, but more frequently of cashmere or merino, and were
occasionally worn under a shawl or mantle. They were known under several
names, viz. “coin-du-feu,” “casaque,” “pardessus,” &c.; and there was
quite a series of kasawecks, i. e. home kasawecks, garden kasawecks,
girls’ kasawecks, grandmamma’s kasawecks, &c. Women of fashion, however,
never wore them out of their own house in the daytime.
For several years wide-brimmed beaver bonnets were generally worn. They
were given up because they were very expensive, unsuitable for full
dress, and soon lost their colour. Velvet bonnets succeeded them, trimmed
with black lace or feathers, and drawn bonnets of satin or silk, or crape
bonnets, on which were velvet heartsease, auriculas, or primroses.
Gowns, which remained about the same in shape, were cut more or less
low, according as they were intended for morning or evening wear. Some
were shorter than others; but fashion no longer allowed the ankle to be
displayed as in 1829.
As regards material, the favourite woollens were cashmere, flannel,
Glasgow cloth, and Amazon sateen; and in silks, plain or glacé, “satin à
la reine,” “pekin,” “gros d’Afrique,” &c.
An enumeration of all the cloaks, mantles, and pardessus would be
tedious. But I must not omit to mention the bell-shaped, or Greek cloak,
also called the “Cornelia,” because its fulness and simplicity somewhat
resembled the form of the Roman cloak. It had no sleeves and no seam on
the shoulder, and could be gathered up over the arms like a shawl, at the
pleasure of the wearer.
Another cloak, called the Moldavian, fell below the knee, the sleeves
hung down wide at the back, and formed a square cape in front. We may
also mention the double-cape beige cashmere mantle, edged with braid;
the Josephine mantle, with one cape, and without shoulder-seam; and the
shawl-mantle, the elegance of which depended chiefly on the trimming.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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