The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
In 1850, also, a little hand-bag or workbox was invented, of real
utility, containing various little articles on the inside of the lid,
viz. a needle-case, an instrument for the nails, a bodkin, scissors, a
button-hook, and crochet-hooks. The box itself held a thimble, a little
pocket-book, a pencil, a looking-glass, and a pincushion. It would easily
hold in addition, a purse, a handkerchief, a strip of embroidery or any
other small piece of needlework, and reels of cotton. It was made in
brown, black, or green leather, or in Russian leather lined with silk.
Two leather straps made it very convenient to carry: it has been improved
every succeeding year, and at the present day is in constant request.[62]
“Bourgeoises” and working women have adopted it; and it is of great
service to all housewives. This was the origin of our present admirably
convenient travelling-bags.
The following was a pretty costume of the period. A green or blue silk
gown shot with black, with two or three graduated flounces, each flounce
braided in the Greek key pattern, with narrow black velvet ribbon. The
basque bodice (for all kinds of basques were worn) was trimmed with
velvet. A fine white petticoat embroidered in open work was visible, if
the dress were ever so little held up.
Silk was in such universal demand that fabulous prices were asked for it;
and velvet was less esteemed than moire antique, or brocades, or gros de
Tours, or satin-striped chinés, or reps with velvet bands, or watered
poplins, or Irish plaid poplins.
Nevertheless, shop-girls and workwomen made every possible sacrifice in
order to procure a silk gown, in place of the Rouen cottons formerly worn.
A decided improvement in colours came into fashion. Ladies perceived,
or were beginning to perceive, that each should wear those shades most
becoming to her, and that, while following the popular fashions of
Longchamps, she should adapt her dress to her own face and figure.
The various styles of gowns, mantles, and bonnets continued to increase
in number.
Chinés were very numerous; there were “pastel chinés,” bouquet of roses
chinés, chinés with patterns arranged apron-fashion, chinés with wreaths
round the skirt, obelisk chinés, &c. Tall and slight persons wore as many
as five flounces, the upper one being gathered in with the skirt at the
waist.
Pagoda sleeves brought back velvet and ribbon bracelets; they might
almost have been called armlets, for the wrist was entirely hidden by
bows and ends. This was very becoming to thin persons: those with round,
plump arms wore a plain piece of velvet and a buckle.
Handkerchiefs were bordered in button-hole stitch, and for full
dress were embroidered and trimmed with lace, or were made of “carré
d’Angleterre.”
Gloves of kid and lamb-skin were so greatly in request, that the
manufacturers raised the price on the pretext that “the massacre of the
poor little animals did not supply the demand.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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