The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Very pretty trinkets were manufactured in green enamel, or enamel, gold,
and pearls, or blue oxydized silver. Cap pins and brooches were made
with pendants, either of pearls or diamonds. Arabesques were greatly
appreciated by women of artistic taste.
How numerous were the toilets of one single day! First a dressing-gown,
then a costume for mass, another for walking, another for the evening,
others for the theatre or a ball! And all these without counting
wedding-gowns, or mourning attire, or the dress of young girls or
children.
The great and typical novelty of 1850 was the introduction, first, of
straw bonnets, and then of drawn bonnets. An endless variety were seen
in places of fashionable resort. We need but enumerate the names of some
of these: “paillassons,” “sewn straws,” “Belgian straws” with scalloped
edges; and fancy straws in shell patterns, lozenges, &c.
This revived fashion of Italian straw bonnets lasted for several years.
Women who could afford it, purchased expensive straws called “pailles de
Florence” (Leghorns); the middle classes contented themselves, generally
speaking, with sewn straws.
All these more or less expensive bonnets were trimmed with white ribbon,
wheat-ears, cornflowers, and bows of ribbon or straw.
Drawn bonnets were especially becoming to young girls; they were made of
crêpe lisse or tulle, and trimmed with bands of Italian straw. Many were
made of Mechlin net, of horsehair, and of rice straw or chip. Black lace
drawn bonnets were worn in general by women of a certain age.
We see that straw was approved of by every class, and in every station of
life.
A woollen material, still in use at the present day, was first
manufactured in 1850. It was called “Orleans,” or “Orleance;” it
was mixed and lustrous, was sometimes made in grey and black for
half-mourning, and was principally used for gowns. “Armure,” an autumn
stuff, was a woollen mixture, grey, violet, or green, with satin stripes.
The bodices of walking-dresses were still made to open in a V shape,
with wide frilled sleeves and tight under-sleeves, showing black velvet
bracelets cleverly embroidered to represent coral.
Some magnificent dresses were made of “satin à la reine,” brocaded with
little “chiné” bouquets, and trimmed with flounces either of equal depth
or graduated.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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