The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time — John Shaqi
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
“Louise,” says a mother to her little daughter, “if you are a good child
you shall wear your pretty pink frock on Sunday, or your lovely green
hat, or your blue socks,” &c. The little girl accordingly is “good,” in
order to gratify her taste for dress, and her budding love of admiration:
both of these qualities will develope as her years increase.
“Cast a glance on the graceful perfection, on the inimitably attractive
charm which distinguishes the dress of a Frenchwoman from that of all
other women on earth,” says a contemporary writer, “and you will soon see
a difference between mademoiselle and madame; the very sound of their
voices is not the same. The heart and the mental faculties of a young
girl seem to be wrapped in slumber, or at any rate dozing, until the day
comes when they are to be roused by the marriage ceremony. So long as
only mademoiselle is speaking, there is in the tone, or rather in the key
of her voice, something limp, monotonous, and insipid; but let madame
address you, and you will be fascinated by the charm with which rhythm,
cadence, and accentuation can invest a woman’s voice.”
As we have said, Paris and the whole of France have for a very long
time inaugurated the fashions which every other nation has adopted.
Yet the first journal especially devoted to fashion was not published
in France. One Josse Amman, a painter, who was born at Zurich, and
who died at Nuremberg, brought out, in 1586, a charming series of
plates on the fashions of his day, under the title of “Gynæceum, sive
Theatrum Mulierum,” &c. (“The Gynæceum or Theatre of Women, in which
are reproduced by engraving the female costumes of all the nations of
Europe”). This work was published at Frankfort, and although it cannot
be duly appreciated by women, because it is written in Latin, it must be
regarded as the origin of all the Journals of Fashion which have since
grown and multiplied.
Under the title, “Les Modes de la Cour de France, depuis l’an 1675
jusqu’à l’année 1689,” two folio volumes of coloured fashion-plates were
published in Paris; but they principally related to special costumes
for the courtiers of Louis XIV.; the “city” was treated with contempt,
and admiration was reserved for fine “court-dresses.” There was no
periodical paper in France, relating to novelties in female dress,
before the time of the Directory, in the closing years of the eighteenth
century. Until then there had been no development of theories on this
interesting subject. Our neighbours imitated our dress, after having
visited our salons or our promenades, or they consulted some desultory
drawings of costume.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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