The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
On the establishment of the Second Empire, the fashions of the First were
not immediately adopted, notwithstanding the prognostications of certain
enthusiasts. We must note, however, that waists became shorter, and that
reminiscences of the time of the Great Napoleon were perceptible in some
of the accessories of dress, although they took no real root among us.
Frenchwomen showed a reluctance to wear costumes that had been severely
criticized in their hearing.
Many years were destined to pass by before any attempt should be made to
revive the shapes of the First Empire.
The marriage of Napoleon III., however, gave a new impetus to feminine
fashion, and every woman set herself to imitate as far as possible the
style of dress worn by the Empress, now suddenly become the arbiter of
attire.
The dress worn by the Emperor’s bride at the marriage in the Cathedral
of Notre Dame, was of white terry velvet, with a long train. The basque
bodice was high, and profusely adorned with diamonds, sapphires, and
orange-blossoms. The skirt was covered with “point d’Angleterre.” This
kind of lace had been selected on account of the veil, which it had been
impossible to procure in “point d’Alençon.” Félix Escalier dressed the
new Empress’s hair. There were two bandeaus in front; one was raised and
peaked in the Marie Stuart shape, the other was rolled from the top of
the head to the neck, where it fell in curls that, according to a poet,
looked like “nests for Cupids.”
This costume was long the subject of conversation in both aristocratic
and bourgeois salons, especially among the adherents of the Imperial
Régime.
We must say a few words concerning the court mantle, and the court train,
which soon took its place in official attire.
The true court mantle falling from the shoulders was reserved, it is
said, for the Empress, the princesses, and some few highly honoured
ladies exclusively; for the Imperial Court wished to imitate exactly the
magnificence displayed by Louis XIV., and the first ranks of Society
became luxurious in the extreme.
A court train consisted of a skirt opening in front, but falling low at
the sides, and ending in a long train. The train was attached to the
waist. Ladies found it necessary to consult a dancing-master in order to
learn, not how to advance with a train, which was easy enough, but how to
turn round, and especially how to retreat, which was extremely difficult.
Lappets were necessary for court dress; they fell to the waist, and were
generally made of lace, and occasionally embroidered in gold or silver.
At full-dress assemblies, elegance and splendour of attire increased day
by day; the most brilliant inventions in millinery succeeded each other
uninterruptedly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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