The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The first dressmakers in Paris were employed in making for the new
Empress four series of gowns, if we may so describe them, viz. evening
gowns, ball-dresses, visiting dresses, and morning-gowns. Among those
for “full dress” was one of pink moire antique; it had a basque bodice
trimmed with fringe, lace, and white feathers; another was of green silk,
the flounces trimmed with curled feathers; and a third of mauve silk,
the flounces bordered with Brussels lace. All were made with basques,
long-waisted, and either with trains or demi-trains rounded off. The
bodices for the most part were draped.
However great the desire of many persons to see the fashions of the First
Empire revived, those I have just described were certainly far from
resembling them. Although waists were slightly shortened, the general
aspect of dress retained the youthful, elegant, and slim effect which has
always been, and will always remain, so creditable to the French taste.
The majority of ladies felt no temptation to recall the times of that
Maréchale Lefebvre, who was as famous for her finery and feathers as for
her singular choice of language and her extraordinary remarks. Nothing of
the past can be enduring, except that which has succeeded.
During the winter of 1853-4, dresses were worn at the opera, of which I
will describe one as a typical example.
The gown was of grey “poult de soie,” the high bodice was fastened by
ruby buttons, and the basques, open on the hips, were trimmed with a knot
of cherry-coloured ribbon. The five flounces of the skirt were trimmed
with ribbon of the same hue, laid on flat, and terminating in bows with
long ends. This was very unlike the dresses of 1810.
Bodices “à la Vierge,” Pompadour and Watteau bodices with trimmings
of lace, velvet, flowers, and ruched, quilled, or plain ribbon, were
extremely fashionable. There was a certain grace about them.
On the whole, women greatly preferred the stomachers of the eighteenth
century to the short waists of the first years of the nineteenth. They
modelled themselves rather on the ancient order of things, than on the
commencement of the new order, because above all they sought for pure and
delicate outline.
The fashions of the reign of Louis the Eighteenth were resorted to for
trimming the skirts of ball-dresses. Large puffings of muslin or lace
came almost up to the knees. Here and there little butterfly bows of
ribbon nestled in the interstices of the puffs, and produced a charming
effect.
The number of new colours was considerable. “Théba” was a brownish-yellow
tint, much favoured, it is said, by the Empress, and consequently a good
deal used by authorities on dress. But it did not remain in fashion
longer than was considered desirable by persons always in quest of fresh
novelties.
Light colours were generally preferred, and every imaginable tint was
tried in turn with inconceivable rapidity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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