The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
During the prevalence of skirts resembling balloons, ladies wore
very large collars, to which they gave historic names of the time of
Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., evoking reminiscences of Anne of Austria,
Cinq-Mars, Mdlle. de Mancini, and the Musketeers.
An immense crinoline and an enormous collar constituted the principal
part of a costume. The rest was merely accessory, and was unnoticed on
the moving mass for which the pavement of the capital was far too narrow,
and which offered a large surface to splashes of mud.
At the same period, Marie Antoinette fichus, either black or white,
and trimmed with two rows of lace, were very fashionable; they were
crossed over the chest, and tied behind the waist. Black lace bodices
were equally popular. Both looked very well over a low dress. Beautiful
lace, long hidden in old cupboards, was now brought out and turned
to account. Several articles of dress were revived in remembrance
of Marie-Antoinette. Besides the fichu, our great ladies wore Marie
Antoinette canezous and mantillas. The ends of the canezou finished at
the waist, while those of the mantilla were crossed under the arms.
Nothing could be lighter or more graceful. Both fichu and canezou found
fanatical admirers.
The Empress demi-veils were also a lasting success. Some were made of
tulle “point d’esprit,” and edged with a deep blond lace, frilled on;
others were of open network, and hardly concealed the face at all.
The year following the Paris International Exhibition of 1855, cashmere
shawls generally formed a portion of handsome winter costumes. Shawls,
even in Ternaux’ time, had not been so universally worn.
In addition to those of India, shawls of excellent quality were
manufactured in Paris, Lyons, and Nîmes, and in textures not inferior to
those of the East.
The pure cashmere shawls were entirely composed of cashmere wool; the
“Hindoo” cashmere shawls were the same as the pure cashmere, with the
exception of the warp, which was in fancy silk twisted at the ends;
“Hindoo” woollen shawls had the same warp as the Indian cashmere, but the
woof was of wool, more or less fine in quality.
Towards the end of the summer, as the evenings became cooler, mantillas
and basquines were succeeded by “Mouzaia” or “Tunisian” shawls,
manufactured from silk refuse, and generally striped in two colours. Some
blue and white ones were very pretty, resembling African shawls.
Algerian burnouses with Thibet tassels were greatly used for wraps at
theatres, concerts, and balls. French ladies, seen from a distance,
looked much like Arabs; but at least their shoulders were protected from
the cold, and that was the essential point.
Burnouses with slightly pointed capes, called “Empress mantles,” were
made in plush, Siberian fur, and plaid velvet. These mantles were
universally popular; they were worn in France, and throughout Europe,
being most comfortable as well as elegant, when gracefully put on.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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