The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
In the same year straight parasols were succeeded by those with folding
handles, made principally of bordered moire antique, and trimmed either
with frills of the same, or with fringe.
These “Pompadour” parasols became more and more splendid; they were
covered in Chantilly, Alençon, point lace, or blond, and some were
embroidered in silk and gold.
They were mostly made of moire antique, and always with a double frill,
the edges of which were pinked. Generally speaking, the handles were of
ivory and coral. The lace coverings fell gradually into disuse, owing to
their liability to be torn.
The handles of parasols for morning wear were generally of cane or
bamboo; more expensive ones had handles of rhinoceros horn, green
ivory, or tortoise-shell, with coral, cornelian, or agate knobs. The
“bourgeoises” were quite satisfied to use such as these when out on
household business or paying unceremonious visits.
Parasols with folding handles were soon laid aside, and straight handled
ones, worthy rivals of the “marquises” or “duchesses,” resumed their
old place. Women of fashion possessed exquisite white or coloured moire
parasols, lined with blue, pink, or white, with handles of foreign woods,
tortoise-shell inlaid with gold, or rhinoceros horn. For country wear
they were made in écru batiste, lined with coloured sarsnet.
Parasols were now quite indispensable, for in the wide, open spaces of
Paris there was no protection from the sun, the trees affording only a
delusive shade.
At the same time, fans were in such universal request, especially
with young ladies, that it was proposed in jest to found a school of
instruction in the art of managing them.
According to the programme proposed for the imaginary pupils, the word of
command would be, “Prepare fans,” on which they were to be taken in the
hand, and held in readiness. At the word “Unfurl fans,” they were to be
gradually opened, then closed, then opened again.
Frenchwomen used their fans as skilfully as Spanish women manœuvred
theirs. A fashionable Frenchwoman knew how to manage very gracefully
all the accessories of her visiting or walking costumes, viz. her fan,
parasol, handkerchief, smelling-bottle, card-case, and purse.
In 1859 the public was much interested in the fan bequeathed to the
Princess Clotilde by the Queen of Oude; it was of white silk, richly
embroidered with emeralds and pearls; the handle of ivory and gold was
set with rubies and with seventeen diamonds of the finest water.
But, without being equally splendid, many fans of the period were worthy
of being classed among works of art. They were exquisitely painted copies
of the works of Watteau, Lancret, and Boucher. Since then young girls
have learned to paint fans in our art-schools.
One more variation must be noted in the fashions of 1859.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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