The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
To these we must add slippers, shoes with large bows or buckles, and even
modern sandals, which, although very elegantly arranged, were only worn
by a small minority.
At the time of which we speak, a singular novelty was produced, called
the “several,” from the English word meaning _many_.
A “several” contained within itself seven different garments, and
could be worn either as a burnous, a shawl, a shawl-mantle, a scarf, a
“Ristori,” or a half-length basquine. Although patented and of moderate
price, “severals” did not long remain in fashion. “Ristoris,” in
particular, ceased to be worn so soon as the celebrated Italian tragedian
whose name they bore, and who had been thoroughly appreciated in France,
had left our country.
Pocket-handkerchiefs were round, printed in colours, or with chess-board
borders, or hem-stitched, or trimmed with Valenciennes insertion and
stitched bias bands. The fashion of expensive handkerchiefs was by no
means new, yet never before had they been made with such exceeding care,
trimmed with such valuable lace, or so delicately embroidered. It was
usual for ladies to embroider their own handkerchiefs, a task on which
they bestowed extreme pains, achieving perfect marvels of patience and
art.
In 1859, waists were almost on a sudden perceptibly shortened, and a
considerable number of women seemed to fear that fashion was returning
to the ungraceful waists of the First Empire—a period which they looked
upon as the Iron Age of dress. The style of costume most generally worn
that year consisted of a dark green gown with pagoda sleeves, very full,
much trimmed, and a wide ribbon sash tied in front. The bonnet would be
white and green, with white curtain and strings edged with green, and
pretty artificial flowers—particularly daisies, that look like pearls,
notwithstanding their golden centres.
The apprehension of a return to short waists was not realized. Good taste
triumphed over the incomprehensible whim of wishing to resume former
fashions, which had given rise to the adverse and well-founded criticism
under which they had previously succumbed.
During 1859 and the following years there was a rage for Zouave, Turkish,
and Greek jackets, for “Figaros” and “Ristoris.” Ladies considered them,
and still consider them, very comfortable and becoming. They were made
in muslin for summer wear, and for the autumn in cashmere or cloth. Some
were black, and braided in various colours in the Algerian style, others
of different bright shades were braided in black, and some in gold. These
jackets were very much worn in the country.
Now it is next to impossible that a jacket should go well with a very
short waist, and as jackets were particularly graceful, they certainly
helped to maintain the reign of long waists still in fashion at the
present day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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