The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The Marie Antoinette fichu was succeeded by the Charlotte Corday, which
formed a sort of drapery, raised upon the shoulders, and loosely tied
in front. It was principally worn by the “bourgeoises.” In the “great
world,” to use an old but conventional expression, ladies preferred the
Marie Antoinette; the Empress Eugénie wearing it frequently, as did the
most fashionable women of the Second Empire, at varying intervals.
[Illustration]
CHAPTER XXVII.
REIGN OF NAPOLEON III. (CONTINUED).
1855 TO 1860.
Sea-bathing and watering-places—Special
costumes—Travelling-bags—Hoods and woollen shawls—Convenient
style of dress—Kid and satin boots; high heels—Introduction
of the “several” and the “Ristori”—Expensive
pocket-handkerchiefs—Waists are worn shorter—Zouave, Turkish,
and Greek jackets—Bonnet-fronts—Gold trimmings universally
used—Tarlatane, tulle, and lace.
Fashion does not assert itself only in the ordinary round of life. It
frequently enlarges its domain in consequence of some new custom, or, at
least, the development of some old one; and an exceptional occurrence
will produce variations in it.
For many years French people had been in the habit of frequenting
watering-places, and during the Second Empire the “villeggiatura” assumed
extraordinary proportions.
Fashionable crowds hastened to Dieppe, Trouville, Pornic, Biarritz, &c.,
or to Vichy, Plombières, Bagnères, and other thermal places, on the
pretext of health.
But these temporary absences did not emancipate them from the yoke of
Fashion. The most fantastic and even eccentric costumes were invented for
ladies, young girls, and children, and certain costumes that had been
popular at the seaside were worn during the ensuing winter season in
Paris.
Casaques, hoods, and capelines found their way from the sea-beach into
the towns, where, if not worn by great ladies, they were adopted by the
“bourgeoises” and working-women.
Travelling-bags, for instance, came into general use in France, and were
sometimes transformed into dressing-cases.
Extravagance in dress was the rule at watering-places. Ladies walked
by the sea splendidly attired in silk gowns, brocaded, or shot with
gold or silver. One would have imagined one’s self present at a ball at
the Tuileries, or some ministerial reception, rather than at a seaside
place of resort. On fine days ladies wore satin spring-side boots,
with or without patent leather tips, but invariably black; blue and
chestnut-brown boots being no longer in fashion. In the heat of summer,
however, grey boots were admissible. High heels were worn, and have since
that time become higher still, until one wonders how women will at last
contrive to keep their balance.
Generally speaking, boots were made entirely of kid, but sometimes they
were of patent leather. The most stylish were partly kid and partly
patent leather, ornamentally stitched, and laced on the instep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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