The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Milliners and dressmakers made certain improvements in small matters,
and, as is always the case, in default of new inventions, they
endeavoured to revive, if only for a very brief period, some of the
fashions of the past.
There was a great variety of girdles and belts in 1860, viz.: long and
wide ones matching the gown trimmings; long, plain sashes, the ends
trimmed with bands of velvet, and fringe; also waist-bands in Russian or
German leather, hand embroidered, or braided in gold and beads.
In 1861, wide velvet belts called “Medici” were worn, and since that time
sashes have become an important article of attire, on account of their
forming part of the national dress of Alsace and Lorraine.
Bands and belts of all sorts seemed to indicate, even at that period, the
metal belts that were afterwards fashionable in 1875.
In 1861, bands of gold, either straight or diadem shaped, were worn on
the head, and were extremely becoming to dark-haired women. Large gold
combs, with a heavy ring to hold the hair, velvet coronets with gold
beads or buttons, velvet twists and aigrettes, feather head-dresses,
bunches of flowers, velvet bows, and “Ceres” wreaths were very
fashionable.
The favourite style of dressing the hair was in very large rolls, with
a bunch of berries and ash privet on the top of the head; or a wreath
of hops and foliage; or one of oak leaves with gold acorns, and a gold
aigrette in the centre. Wreaths of cornflower, with wheat-ears meeting
over the forehead, were “Ceres” wreaths. These seem to us to have been
among the last styles arranged with order, and in which the talent of the
hair-dresser might manifest itself or produce any artistic result.
The fashion of wearing false and dyed hair was about to reappear, and
French ladies were to put in practice the axiom, that “beautiful disorder
is an effect of art.”
A curious fact attracted the attention of Parisian society in 1861; and
the ladies promptly discarded all green materials. In a professional
journal, the _Union Médicale_, the following paragraph appeared:—
“A young married lady who had gone to a party, wearing a pale green
satin gown, was attacked, after dancing several quadrilles, with
sensations of numbness and want of power in the lower limbs, tightness
in the chest, vertigo, and headache, and was obliged to return home. The
symptoms gradually abated, but the feeling of weakness in the abdominal
region lasted until the third day. No special cause, such as tight
lacing, &c., could be discovered, and suspicion having been directed
to the colour of the lady’s gown, a chemical analysis was made, and
the presence of a quantity of arsenite of copper detected. It is the
opinion of Professor Blasius, that the movement produced by dancing
might, especially with dresses of the ample width required by the present
fashion, suffice to detach a quantity of the arsenical dye, which on
being absorbed by the lungs would give rise to symptoms of arsenical
poisoning.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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