The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The _Journal de la Nièvre_ wrote as follows:—
“Some dressmakers living at Nevers had received an order to make a green
tarlatan gown. Several strips of the material had been torn off for
ruchings, thereby producing a fine dust, which, settling on the face
and penetrating the body through the respiratory and nasal organs, had
occasioned colic in some cases, and in others an eruption on the face....”
Green wall-papers and green dress materials were declared to be equally
pernicious to health.
An interdict was accordingly laid on green, until some chemical process
had been discovered to obviate the dangers described by the _Union
Médicale_ and the _Journal de la Nièvre_.
Women were quite ready to suffer for the sake of their beauty, to tighten
their waists, to imprison their feet in shoes too narrow for them, to
run the risk of inflammation of the chest by wearing low-cut gowns; but
they were not willing to be poisoned by green dyes, especially as green
is not a very becoming colour to most women, and by no means sets off the
complexion.
In order to withstand the cold of winter, our Parisian ladies made up
their minds to wear mantles of soft cloth, or heavy “gros-grain” silk,
although the weight of such garments fatigued them.
These mantles were generally trimmed with broad braid; but some of them
were literally covered with embroidery, and were consequently very
expensive. Real or imitation Astrakan was used for every kind of paletot;
the curly coats of the still-born lambs being greatly admired.
Braiding and Astrakan had a long reign; both were constantly used to
trim various new shapes in mantles or coats, which they greatly improve
without adding to the cost. The town of Astrakan, in Russia, benefited
largely by the French fashions in that particular instance.
The following are types of the most fashionable bonnets, with which
feathers, or velvet flowers, and rosettes, tufts (called chous), or bows
of black lace and white blond, were worn: (1) a bonnet in royal blue
velvet, with a scarf of white tulle laid on the brim; (2) a black velvet
bonnet, with white tulle scarf put round the crown, and falling over the
curtain; (3) a red satin (groseille des Alpes) drawn bonnet, covered with
tulle, and with bows at the side; (4) an orange velvet bonnet, with soft
crown and white tulle brim, a wreath of flowers on the edge.
For morning dress, horsehair, Belgian straw, and chip bonnets were worn.
Very little change was observable in boots, which were generally made of
leather or Turkish satin (satin turc); shoes, either trimmed or plain,
and pumps were no longer in fashion.
Ball-dresses in 1861-2 were generally rose-coloured, with an over-skirt
of lace, and adorned with flowers. On the head was worn a brilliant bunch
of roses, giving a charming finish to the whole costume.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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