The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
1. The hair drawn up from the forehead in a small “catogan” or club, and
a large “coque” or bow of hair above; short curls over the “catogan,” and
the same on each side.
2. The hair drawn up from the forehead without a parting; a large “coque”
in the middle, surrounded by six smaller ones; six long ringlets falling
from the back of the head, a little higher than the “coque,” low on the
shoulders.
3. The hair fixed on the forehead, three immense “coques” on the top of
the head, and ringlets forming a chignon behind.
4. The hair drawn straight up from the roots, and forming three rolls
falling backwards; a “catogan” and three “coques” underneath; one long
“repentir” or ringlet, waved, but not curled.
5. Three triple bandeaus in front; a small “catogan” surrounded by three
rows of plaits; three large curls behind.
The hair was generally worn high, and dressed in a complicated style, but
it was, above all, dishevelled. It was frequently worn quite loose and in
disorder; less so, however, than in 1875.
The ornamental portions of dress were extremely handsome and expensive.
A great deal of jewellery was worn. In 1869, at the Beauvais ball, the
Duchess de Mouchy wore diamonds to the value of 1,500,000 francs. Her
dress consisted of a gown and train of white gauze spotted with silver;
a rather short over-skirt of red currant-coloured silk, forming a ruched
“tablier;” a low, square-cut bodice, and shoulder-straps of precious
stones; a sort of scarf of flowers, with silver foliage, fell from one
shoulder slanting across the skirt.
At Compiègne, Biarritz, and the Tuileries, by turns, brilliant costumes
such as these were seen and admired, and the day after a fête the
fashionable newspapers gave minute descriptions of the most elegant
dresses, and a guess at their approximate cost.
For many years, and although there was little novelty in the fashions,
they never ceased to be the order of the day. More than ever did women
make them their occupation, and men also were deeply interested in the
subject.
There was, so to speak, a tournament of coquetry in Europe, in which the
French ladies always bore away the palm.
New periodicals specially devoted to Fashion were published in France and
abroad, and supplied a real want in circles where many articles of dress
were made at home.
A taste for handsome dress pervaded every class of society, a “good cut”
became every day of more importance, and the smallest variations were
adopted, since radical changes were not taking place.
During the Second Empire new colours called “Magenta,” “Solferino,”
“Shanghai,” and “Pekin” were produced in much the same chronological
succession as the military expeditions to which they owed their names,
and which had been successful, indeed, but at a great cost in blood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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