Our victories in Italy being thus commemorated by Frenchwomen, they condescended to recall in like manner the capture of Pekin and the famous treaty of Shanghai. The extreme East was to them no longer an unknown land. A decided change soon took place in the cut of dresses. As had frequently happened before, Fashion went from one extreme to the other; balloons were succeeded by sacks, and tubs by laths. In 1869, when the question of giving up crinoline was mooted, the leaders of fashion consulted together. One party declared that the reign of crinoline must come to an end on account of its abuses; the other pointed out that “as women now walk so badly on their high heels, crinolines are necessary, and must be retained, because they sustain the weight of the skirts.” The latter party gained the day at first, and crinolines were merely modified. They were made in white horsehair, with rolls round the bottom and up the back only. But, after all, crinoline was destined to extinction, were it only because it had already lasted a long time. At various intervals its adversaries had dealt it vigorous blows, and its partisans now began to perceive that it was both inconvenient and ridiculous. Crinoline could resist no further, and it fell. Dare we say for ever? Crinoline was succeeded by Chinese skirts, extremely narrow over the hips, and precisely like those worn by the inhabitants of Pekin or Canton. The transition was abrupt and sudden. It seemed, however, the most natural thing in the world. Together with tight skirts, several other accessories of dress were made as much like Chinese fashions as possible. Up to a certain point French ladies approved of the new style, which has since that time undergone several transformations, the first being the introduction of the poufs and “tournures” that were still worn as recently as four years ago. [Illustration] [Illustration: Napoleon III 1865 to 1870 Present Fashions 1870 to 1875] CHAPTER XXXI. THE THIRD REPUBLIC. 1870 TO 1874. The years 1870 and 1871—The siege of Paris—General mourning—Simplicity and economy—Parisian velvet and pekin—A concert costume—A cloth costume—Alsatian bows and costumes—Soirées at the Presidency—Marie Stuart and Michael Angelo bonnets—“Hunting stockings”—Rabagas hats—The years 1872 and 1873—Fan parasols—“Leopold Robert” bonnets—The year 1873—Return of luxury—“Regent” belts and “sovereign” dress-improvers—Silks—“Moderate” costumes—The burning of the Opera House—Sale on behalf of those made orphans by the war—The ball for the Lyons weavers—Cashmere tunics—Dislike to gloves—Petticoats—Charles IX. shoes—Slippers—The year 1874—“Page” bonnets and “Margot” hats—Hair in the Swiss style; false hair—The ball given by the Chamber of Commerce—Green—Jet—Various costumes—Hair-dressing—“Mercury” bonnets.