The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
At the Trouville Races, in 1871, there was nothing new in the costumes
worn, in the true signification of the word, but they were neither like
those of the preceding year, nor, as regards brilliancy, like those of
the latter years of the Second Empire, and on that account alone they
deserve mention. Gowns, without crinolines or trains, no longer swept the
beach as formerly, nor did they display the wealth of their wearers; the
visitors to the seaside were simply and modestly attired, and resorted
thither for bathing merely.
“Parisian velvet” was the new winter material. This was a sort of black
satin, with velvet lozenges or diamonds. Another kind of velvet-satin,
called Pekin, was very fashionable. Different varieties of these two
materials made them suitable to every figure. The costume was completed
by a black velvet bonnet with curled black feathers falling over the
crown, and velvet strings.
Satin was mixed with “Irish” cashmere for gowns, and trimmed with
fringe, gimp, and lace. The above styles were, I repeat, dignified,
and appropriate to the then position of France. There were some rare
exceptions that contrasted with the general rule.
At a private concert for the benefit of the sufferers by the war, the
principal singer—an amateur—wore a gown of white double crape, with
demi-train and puffings at the bottom; three large “pattes” of black
velvet fell over the skirt, and on each of these was an anchor in Rhine
crystal; the bodice was low, and trimmed with two ruchings of black
velvet, divided by one of white crape. The head-dress was black velvet
and pale Bengal roses.
Under the melancholy circumstances, black was universally worn, but it
was not like ordinary mourning, being richly trimmed; and by degrees, as
months passed on, and the remembrance of recent disasters became fainter,
lighter shades were permitted to modify the exclusively black garments.
The so-called “cloth costume” was also much worn; this consisted of
a tunic, jacket, and skirt. The tunic was polonaise shape, plain in
front, and with two Watteau plaits behind; the skirt was of silk, either
flounced or kilted, or else in orleans or cashmere, for morning wear. A
wide-sleeved jacket, cut out all round in “battlements,” was worn over
this costume.
Alsatian bows for the hair, in remembrance of our beloved and lost
Alsace, were much worn by young girls. Marie Antoinette fichus and
Charlotte Corday caps were still in fashion, and becomingly adorned with
Alsatian bows.
During the Carnival of 1872—hardly a brilliant one, as may be
imagined—the Alsatian costume was quite a success. The same may be
said of the costume of Lorraine. But, to our mind, there was something
childish in thus exhibiting our regret at having ceded two of our finest
provinces to Germany; it was no affair of fashion. Visiting costumes
were trimmed with ribbon rosettes at the side, in imitation of the
Alsatian custom, and this style remained in fashion for more than a year.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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