The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
On Tuesday evening, October 28, 1873, an unforeseen calamity befell the
world of fashion. The Paris Opera House, in which so many masterpieces
had been performed, and which was so admirably adapted for music, was
burned to the ground.
One of the temples of Fashion had perished in a night; and for a time the
splendid attire that had been wont to display itself at the Opera, had
also to vanish and be seen no more. No more was the dazzling light of the
great chandelier to be shed upon the “poufs” in English point, blond,
jet, or tulle; the tiaras and “rivières” of diamonds, the state costumes,
the magnificent Circassian belts!
The destruction of the Opera House dealt a terrible blow to aristocratic
finery, and forced it to take refuge in balls and promenades.
The “toilette d’Opera,” which was to rival that “des Italiens,” had to
wait until its temple should be rebuilt. The probation, however, was
short.
We are bound to admit that things were not so bad as might have been
expected. At that very moment luxury and fashion were assuming gigantic
proportions, and under the Third Republic women continued to wear clothes
of excessive costliness. It was fortunate that persons of slender means
were permitted to copy in simple materials the shape and trimming of
high-priced costumes. The “cut” became the principal point in dress,
other things being left to the choice and discretion of the wearer.
On the occasion of a charity sale on behalf of the orphans of the war,
at the new Opera House, Parisians perceived that the love of striking
costumes had not passed away. The lady stall-holders—Mme. Thiers, Mdlle.
Dosne, the Maréchale de MacMahon, and the Princesses Troubetskoï and
De Beauvau—vied with each other in elegance of attire, and the lady
purchasers were not left behind; their dresses were of various colours,
more or less harmonious, and composed of mazes of material and floods of
ribbon, heaps of lace, kiltings, flounces, and bows; in a word, all that
can be conceived of richness and elegance.
Under the peristyle of the Opera Garnier, parasols in “écru” silk spotted
with blue or pink, trimmed with bows and two rows of lace; and also
“cane” parasols with large handles, were seen. According to the strict
laws of costume, the parasol should be suited to the costume, and even
the fan should match.
A ball was given afterwards at the same theatre for the benefit of the
Lyons weavers, and the dresses were more magnificent than ever. But
no one found fault. Mme. Musard made a great sensation in a dress of
lime-tree colour, richly brocaded with bouquets of roses. The material
had been manufactured at Lyons at a cost of 100 francs per yard. White
predominated in the dresses of the queens of the ball—Mmes. de Mouchy,
Aymery de la Rochefoucauld, De Béhague, De Pène, De Beaufort, Alphonse
and Gustave de Rothschild. The latter wore a wonderful “apron” of pearls
worth several fortunes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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