The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
A lady not quite in the first circle, would practise economy by wearing
a cashmere tunic. This was simply her venerable burnous, that had been
lying for years in her wardrobe, re-made and trimmed with lace and jet
braid. Or she would resort to the art of the dyer, and her old green gown
would emerge from his hands a new handsome black one, with a few yards of
velvet added. The art of dyeing performs miracles, and at small cost.
A strange rumour was current in the highest circles in 1873.
What was that?
Nothing less than the abolition of gloves! This was assuredly no question
of economy, for their place was to be taken by a fashion worthy of the
days of the Directory. Women of fashion proposed to wear clusters of
rings between every finger joint; each hand to bear a fortune.
This was the fantastic dream of some “blasée” fine lady, longing for
novelty at any price. It was not realized, as may be imagined; and gloves
kept their place—an important one—among articles of feminine attire.
A desirable change in taste was manifested in the almost total
suppression of the trimmings with which gowns had been overloaded.
Dress remained as pretty as before, and cost much less. A Frenchwoman
can easily attain the beautiful, without over-stepping the bounds of
moderation. Much of the grace and becomingness of a costume depends on
the under-skirts, and, simple as they seem, they will long retain their
importance.
Waistcoats, “French Guard” coats, and “Leaguer” hats seemed like
encroachments on masculine dress, but the waistcoat was partially
disguised by a good deal of ornamentation.
Charles IX. house-shoes were much worn; they were of fine kid, rounded
at the tips, with high pointed heels and low vamps trimmed with bows; a
kid strap across the instep, with a large square buckle in steel or Rhine
crystal.
Felt slippers were worn of every shade of colour, braided in wool. Cloth
boots, with kid under-leathers, were made to match the costume with
admirable skill.
The year 1874 effected no change in the fashions of 1873 as we have
described them. But some of the minor accessories were varied, and thus
an air of novelty was given to the beginning of each season.
Flounces of English, Alençon, and Mechlin lace were mixed with quantities
of raised embroidery, beautifully executed.
A new shape for bonnets was favourably received in the highest circles
of fashion. It was of black velvet, with low round crown, and wide brim
slightly curled, something like a miller’s hat. The edge and crown were
bordered with jet beads. Some ladies wore this shape in felt, with a long
natural ostrich feather. Young girls preferred the “Page” hat, with soft
crown and drawn brim, and the “toquet Margot,” the brim of which was
plaited, and widened at the back into something like a bonnet curtain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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