[Illustration: Present Fashions 1875 and 1876 Present Fashions 1877 and 1878] CHAPTER XXXII. FASHIONS OF THE PRESENT DAY. 1875 TO 1878. Dinner, casino, and ball dresses in 1875—Importation of false hair—Manufacture in France—Modification of waterproofs—“Estelle” bonnets—Tunic aprons—Cuirass bodices—“Montespan” sleeves—“Saut-du-lit”—Shoes of past times—“Bonnes-femmes” pockets—Henri III. plumes—“Inez” veils—Ribbons and flowers—Heavy style of dress—“Pouf” petticoats—Composite fashions of 1876—Armenian toques—“Ophelia” bonnets; “Danichef” bonnets—Mdlle. Bettina Rothschild’s wedding trousseau—A splendid parasol—Gondolier hair-nets—“Baby” sashes and “baby” bonnets—“Fontanges” fichus—“Platitudes”—Red, as a colour—Pockets of various kinds—Majestic appendages—Princess dresses—Bouquets on the bodices—Hair dressed in the Greek style—A thousand curls—Breton style—Organ-pipe frills—Coat-bodices—Trinkets in black and silver. We have now reached the fashions of the present day, that is, the fashions that have prevailed from 1875 to 1881. It will be well to divide this period into two parts, the first extending from 1875 to 1878, the second from 1878 to 1881. What were the costumes worn at a dinner, casino, or ball in 1875? We will describe a lady’s gown made of sky blue Italian silk. The front of the skirt was trimmed with five flounces of antique lace, above which were full ruchings in two shades of blue, one shade being the same as that of the skirt, and the other rather darker. The upper skirt, widely open in front in order to display the splendid petticoat, formed an ample train at the back. A lace scarf fell gracefully over the folds of the costume. The edge of the tunic was trimmed with antique lace and ruchings. The bodice was cut low and square; the sleeves consisted entirely of ruchings and narrow lace, and reached to the elbow, where they were trimmed with two deep falls of lace—a most becoming finish. The hair was dressed high with a Spanish comb, ribbons, and flowers. We may mention here a curious fact that appears in the published accounts of the trade of Marseilles during the year 1875. 75,000 kilogrammes of hair, from the several countries of Asia Minor, Egypt, Hindostan, China, Italy, and Spain, entered France through that port. Formerly, as we have already stated, Brittany and Normandy supplied us with this article of commerce. The manufacture of false hair in France amounted in 1875 to 130,000 kilogrammes, and was insufficient to supply the demands of fashion. The street-sweepings of hair, collected by the scavengers, were used for making luxuriant tresses of all lengths and all shades—blond, red, black, or brown. Beaded and shining trimmings were very handsome, and much admired. Some were of totally new design, and were even preferred to lace.