The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
This reminds us of an historical incident in the reign of Henri III., on
the occasion of a banquet given by that king to some gentlemen who had
accompanied him to the siege of La Charité. “The ladies,” says Pierre
l’Estoile, “were all dressed in green; and all the guests were likewise
in green, for which cause, 60,000 francs worth of green silk had been
obtained from Paris.”
But to return to 1874. Green did not in that year create any great
excitement in trade; but jet was so extensively used, that the effect
was similar to that produced by the rage for green silk under Henri III.
In the course of a few months, several bead manufacturers at Venice made
immense sums of money. The foreign manufacturers who supplied our French
ladies with jet beads are at the present day millionnaires.
Together with the “merveilleuse” hat, the “incroyable” bodice came into
fashion. The latter opened over a waistcoat fastened by handsome fancy
buttons. The top was trimmed with a ruching lined with lilac; the sleeves
were in three pieces, with embroidered bands between.
Generally speaking, costumes were made in shades of one colour, rather
than in contrasting colours.
Pelted boots for ladies were introduced. This fashion probably originated
on the turf, but the boots were practically useless, except for
travelling.
Foulard was the favourite material for gowns, and the delightful
Hungarian or Croatian paletot was universally adopted. This was trimmed
with glass beads and frogs, and the shape was exquisitely becoming to the
figure, while the long flowing sleeves lent grace to the least graceful.
Some women of the highest rank favoured an extraordinary costume called
the “sheath” or “cloche.” They enveloped themselves in a garment which
fitted closely to the whole body. This whim was adopted only by a few,
because it was not becoming.
A great deal of trimming was worn on beige, mohair, tussore, alpaca, and
écru foulard gowns.
False hair went out of fashion, and was succeeded by the “knocker” or
“Catogan” style. Instead of being frizzed and twisted in every direction,
the hair was gathered together at the back of the head in a loose wide
plait, and looped on the nape of the neck with a ribbon bow.
Several new bonnet shapes were introduced during the summer, viz. the
“Trianon,” the “Elizabeth,” the “Charlotte Corday,” the “sailor hat,” the
“shepherdess,” the “Bersaglière,” the “Bandoulier,” the “Fra Diavolo,”
the “Orpheus,” and others. At the seaside the “Mercury” hat was popular;
it was a sort of “toquet,” with two wings in the front, springing from an
Alsatian bow, and the crown turned up at the back under a Catogan bow,
in which was fastened a poppy, or a large “Reine Marguerite” or ox-eyed
daisy.
In the autumn, the polonaise was succeeded by the tunic. Beaded, shining
trimmings became more fashionable than ever. Open or flat collars took
the place of frills. A small gold pencil-case was worn hanging from the
watch chain.
[Illustration]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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