The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
“Pouf” petticoats, or narrow dress-improvers, were made long enough to
support the heavy folds of the gown.
In conclusion, it may be said that the long trains, the ornamented
sleeves, and the tight bodices that combined reminiscences of the Middle
Ages with the requirements of modern fashion, were principally remarkable
for their details of all sorts—twists, fanciful arrangements, knots,
bows, fringes, gold and silver braid, artistically carved buttons, and
beautiful fur.
From the commencement of the year 1876, fashion became more and more
of the composite order. Styles of every period were successfully
blended. That of the reign of Henri II. was resorted to first. Gowns
were made of sumptuous materials trimmed with Venice point, and with
long trains. Figured silks, satin brocades in Arabesque designs, or
flowers and foliage, were used for feminine attire, and looked to the
full as splendid as the dresses of former times. Among head-dresses, the
“Armenian toque” was very fashionable; then came the “Ophelia” bonnet in
black lace, with two wreaths of rose-buds; and the “Danichef,” in beaded
black net, taken from the bonnet worn by one of the actresses in a play
of that name, which was performed at the Odéon for more than a hundred
successive nights.
The fashionable world was at that time greatly interested in the splendid
wedding of Mdlle. Bettina Rothschild, which was described at length in
all the newspapers. The trousseau included under-garments worth 200,000
francs. The pocket-handkerchiefs were perfect marvels of needlework
and Alençon and Mechlin lace. There were several magnificent cashmere
shawls. Among the dozen and a half parasols, there was one deserving
of particular mention. It was made of rose-coloured silk, shaded
with white gauze, and again covered with point lace; the point was a
cluster of emeralds and brilliants, and the handle was of jade, thickly
encrusted with similar precious stones. A gold ring set with emeralds and
brilliants was used to close this truly Oriental toy. The numerous fans
comprised in the trousseau had been painted by our best artists.
I should need several pages for the bare enumeration of the contents
of this young lady’s jewel-case. I shall therefore content myself
with naming a microscopic watch set in a solid piece of coral, with a
châtelaine hook, and a triple gold chain, the hook bearing a baron’s
coronet, marvellously carved, surmounting the combined initials of the
wealth-laden young couple.
I have digressed, I admit; but the digression is not out of place in
a History of Fashion, for it proves that magnificent dress is as much
appreciated under a Republic as under a Monarchy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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