Bonnets were very various in shape and trimming. Some very elegant women wore “jugulars” in feathers or fur, instead of bonnet strings. A few bonnets were not unlike the leaning tower of Pisa. Cashmere shawls regained their place. They were draped in the old classic way; the bust being enveloped in soft folds, while the amplitude of the rest of the figure was, as is always the case, increased. It is my duty as a scrupulous historian to note the predominance of “cardinal” or “carob” red in the costumes of 1876. Red sunshades, red feathers, and red frocks abounded everywhere. This caprice could not be enduring, and we must acknowledge that it soon passed away, to the great advantage of real elegance in dress. Light shades took the place of red, and also of dark blue. The most fashionable summer materials were jaconets with pink, pale blue, grey, and lime-tree coloured stripes, trimmed with Irish lace, thread fringe matching the gown, or kiltings and bias pieces of the stuff itself. Walking dresses were made with simplicity and good taste. Mantles were large and long, and on the approach of autumn were made with wide “Mandarin” sleeves. Polonaises in light woollen materials, with velvet sleeves, were also fashionable; and all woollen textures were in high favour. There was incredible variety in the shape of pockets; besides those of which I have already spoken, there were “cornets,” “hottes,” and “corniers,” all elegant articles of attire, beautifully made and embroidered, and fixed in various ways on the skirt. Faille and brocades of different shades were used for full dress. Gowns were so tight, and so much “tied back,” that they almost impeded movement; the knees were encircled with garlands of flowers or buds. These flowers were succeeded by foliage, and there were more “Velledas” than “Floras” among our women of fashion, as was remarked by a clever journalist of the day. Metal buttons, at first enormously large, and afterwards reduced in size, and sometimes shaped like grélots (sledge bells), were used to ornament the costume. Skunk and Siberian fox took the place of Swedish and Canadian furs, temporarily out of fashion, while costly sable was worn by ladies of extreme elegance. A pelisse lined with sable is like a costly piece of furniture, or a precious jewel; its value is not affected by any caprice of the day. Breton lace was used in morning dress, and this charming novelty looked extremely well with the cascades of coloured ribbon that were so generally worn.