The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
To bring this short review of the year 1876 to a conclusion, I must state
that the type of costume was little altered; the only change was in
trimmings, or in the greater or less length of trains. Costumes consisted
principally of a scaffolding of flounces, fringes, and kiltings, without
the great trailing mass that had long been a result of wide skirts.
Trains became positive tails; but they no longer interfered with the free
action of the limbs, and developed into what might be termed a majestic
appendage.
Morning caps were made of white or coloured foulard handkerchiefs
twisted like a Mamamouchi turban, and ornamented with a little bunch of
mignonette, with a pale rose in the centre. There was something both
sentimental and artistic about these caps.
But even when the same style of dress lasts from one year to another, or
for several years, there is an absolute necessity for many variations
of type; otherwise we should cease to be ruled by caprice, which, as we
know, will never abdicate its power.
In January, 1877, princess gowns were still in fashion, the princess
shape being preferred to all others, both for morning and evening wear.
In the latter case, they were made high behind, and either cut low and
square, or in a V shape in front, and with sleeves to the elbow only.
The bodice and skirt of princess gowns were cut from one piece, but the
skirt was ornamented with fringes, sashes, and bows, or it was worn over
another and longer skirt.
Many mantles were made of the same material as the dress, and many were
black.
Bouquets of small delicate roses were worn on the bodice, one at the
breast, and the other just below the shoulder. Bonnets were chosen, as
far as possible, to match the rest of the dress. Some women wore their
hair in the Greek fashion, bound with three blue fillets, and a little
fringe of loose curls on the forehead.
Towards March a decided change took place in the shape of costumes,
and women looked like walking statues, clad in drapery that adhered as
closely to the front and sides of the figure as a wet bathing-gown,
while it was gathered into a bunch at the back. The portion of the skirt
that formed the apron hung flat, but the rest was gathered in soft folds
towards the back of the train. The bodice, whether cuirassed or not,
assumed reasonable proportions.
The ungraceful costumes copied from those of the First Empire were at
length about to disappear!
Muslin kiltings were once more restored to favour. The hair was dressed
in the “thousand curls” of which Mme. de Sévigné speaks, giving the head
a round shape, which admitted of no ornament save a flower on one side.
This was a becoming style in many instances.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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