The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Gold and silver braid were quite out of fashion, and had been succeeded
by trimmings of chenille or of stamped and cut-out velvet, sometimes
placed on the edge of the garment and sometimes diagonally. Egyptian
veils were very popular, and were, in Eastern fashion, crossed at the
back, and tied in front. Sometimes they were tied in a large bow, framing
the face very becomingly. It was considered good style to arrange the
hair at the back, “knocker-wise,” or in graduated waves; the hat was
placed on the top, and this fashion was both coquettish and extremely
convenient.
The bonnet-strings, or “jugulars,” in fur, chenille, or plaited ribbon,
that had been so fashionable in the winter of 1876-7, were succeeded by
strings of flowers.
On the whole, women’s garments were less narrow; and the excessively
clinging “sheath” dresses disappeared. This was a great gain to freedom
of movement and grace, for feminine attire should not sharply reveal
the female form, but only indicate it. The charm of mystery ought to be
retained, and the too much or too little of substance should be carefully
concealed.
There was an obvious tendency towards greater simplicity in dressing the
hair, enormous quantities of false hair being no longer worn, as they
would have been out of harmony with the rest of the dress. The hair was
sometimes divided in a slanting direction; or on the forehead with a
second parting from ear to ear; or it was drawn back, Chinese fashion,
and then divided into two loose twists crossed one over the other, and
arranged something like a helmet above the forehead; or in rings on the
forehead. Every style was admissible—plaits, curls, and straight or waved
bandeaux.
In like manner, bonnets were worn of very different shapes—in coloured
straw, or chip, and trimmed with roses, azaleas, eglantine, and
rose-buds. The “plate”-bonnet was rather popular, as were also small
bonnets in Belgian straw. I am now speaking of summer bonnets.
Feather aigrettes came once more into fashion.
The favourite textures were “Milan moss” and “swan’s down.” The favourite
ribbon was that in the new colour called “pink-coral.” Light-coloured
belts, with gilt and inlaid buckles, and harmonizing with the colour of
the dress, were very much worn. Jewellery was restricted to a simple
bracelet, a “porte-bonheur,” a locket, studs in the ears, and a white fan
suspended to the wrist by a pink ribbon. A few ladies took to wearing
Japanese trinkets. Long Swedish gloves with at least four or six buttons,
and “Charles IX.,” “Molière,” “Victoria,” and “Richelieu” shoes were
adopted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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