The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The International Exhibition of 1878—Foreign countries—Japanese
fans—The little lace-makers of Peniche—Retrospective Exhibition
of costume in France—“Considérations sur le vêtement des
femmes,” by M. Charles Blanc—Historical Exhibition at
the Trocadéro—Comprehensive glance at the curiosities of
that Exhibition—“The movement” in 1879—“Merveilleuse,”
“Niniche,” and other bonnets—Plush—Gown-stuff at a
hundred francs the yard—Scarfs, casaques, and various
bodices—Madras costumes—Under-clothing; chemise-corsets,
morning-gowns—“Housewife” fans; fan-holders—Trinkets—New
materials—Visites; jackets; bows; neckties—The year
1880—“Cabriolet” bonnets; “passe-montagnes”—The pilgrim
costume—Satins—Favourite colours—Vests—Art buttons—Bulgarian
costumes—Jerseys—Scented gloves—Flowers in profusion; a bridal
bouquet—Midshipman bonnets—Nordenskiold—Dust-cloaks—Revolution
in bonnets—Art and fashion—“Porte-veines.”
We cannot doubt that the year 1878 will be famous in the long annals of
Fashion, on account of the International and special Exhibitions that
filled Paris with visitors from all parts of the world. In like manner,
every civilized country deluged us with fanciful inventions, and with
extraordinary ideas, that have for the most part vanished.
The galleries devoted to clothing were not less remarkable than those
set aside for other industrial products, and yet the public soon wearied
of them. They were so spacious, not to say encumbered; and then the
attractions of the shop windows were as great as those of the galleries.
Some few however were popular. The cases of Lyons silks, St. Etienne
ribbons, Tarara muslins, stuffs of Roubaix, Rouen, and Paris manufacture;
and the charming Swiss pavilion, with its exquisitely arranged curtains,
lace, tulle, embroidery, and trimmings, are not yet forgotten. The
national costumes brought to Paris from the uttermost ends of the
earth—from Lapland to the Cape of Good Hope, from Oceania to the western
extremity of Europe—excited a good deal of interest.
Every accessory of dress was at hand for the purposes of comparison by
lady connoisseurs. The East set before us its perfumes, coffers, shawls,
tissues, and knick-knacks of all sorts, including the hinged fans, a
Japanese invention, said to have been suggested by the wings of the
bat. America displayed her products, remarkable rather for comfort than
elegance; Africa, her garments dating from the most distant ages, and
Europe showed us her undeniable superiority, her marvellous progress,
and her new inventions, which, whether practical or not, are generally
at least ingenious. I must except, as regards clothes, both Italy and
Holland, while Russia was hardly remarkable except for her furs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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