The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The learned academician raised coquetry to the height of a true art; he
treated of the æsthetics of Fashion, and pointed out its constituent laws.
The public, whose attention was thus directed to the subject of the
present work, was more alive than formerly to its importance, and seemed
favourably disposed towards our undertaking.
In 1878, there was an Historical Exhibition at the Trocadéro. Antique
garments of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, and of the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries, were exhibited, not as curiosities only, but as
subjects for study.
The show-cases of MM. Tassinari and Chatel, of Lyons, contained fine
tapestries, chasubles, copes, women’s hoods, and a large assortment of
Eastern fabrics. Five or six amateurs exhibited collections of dress
ornaments,—bracelets, rings, pins, broaches, earrings, &c. There was
a prettily-dressed doll, in the complete costume of a young girl in
the time of the Medicis; several antique bag and purse clasps; carved,
gilded, and chased betrothal rings and perfume boxes; marriage caskets;
women’s hawking-gauntlets in chased steel; exquisite fans; diamonds in
settings of old silver; curious Norman trinkets; patch-boxes ornamented
with miniatures; bon-bon boxes; and needle-cases.
Several pieces of stuffs from Equatorial Egypt, and quantities of ancient
Egyptian jewellery, with a few valuable ornaments dating from the time of
the Caliphs, were worthy of careful examination, and might have roused
the emulation of our modern workmen.
The Scandinavian Ethnological Museum of Stockholm, forwarded a series of
costumes remarkable for accuracy; almost all of these had been composed
in the year 1820, or thereabouts: these curious specimens obtained a
great and deserved success.
When the time arrived for closing all these exhibitions, and the French
and foreign exhibitors had removed their goods, there remained an
enduring recollection of the marvels of the Trocadéro and the Champs de
Mars.
After that time, exclusively national Fashion resumed its customary
course. A great incentive had been given by the numerous and
distinguished awards conferred on our manufacturers. Novelties of all
sorts were produced, and spread throughout Paris, France, Europe, and
beyond the seas. Our milliners sent their goods to the International
Exhibitions at Sydney and Melbourne. Their superiority and originality
were admitted on all hands.
Meanwhile, savings had been almost or entirely expended, and in 1879 a
diminution of outlay on dress resulted from the extra expenditure of the
preceding year.
“Merveilleuse” bonnets, which, being indicated by their name need no
description from me; “Madrilène” bonnets, made of otter, or plush,
trimmed with jet; and Swedish bonnets in black kid, with an amber-headed
pin, partly concealed in a tuft of feathers, or stuck through a velvet
bow, were equally fashionable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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