The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Many bonnets were entirely composed of leaves, flowers, or fruits. There
were infinite varieties of bonnets and hats, some close, others with wide
brims, some very small, and some very large. “Frondeuse” hats, were of
black straw, with long black and ruby plumes, the brim turned up, and
lined with puckered ruby satin, trimmed with gold lace. “Niniche” and
“Directory” bonnets were lasting favourites, and more generally popular
than their merits would appear to warrant.
During the summer, round bell-shaped hats were at first preferred. Then
close bonnets without strings, cottage bonnets in smooth straw, coming
down very much on the forehead; “Nérine” hats of coarse white straw, and
with wide brims lined with red satin; and many others, differing little
from those I have just named.
Plush was worn as trimming on gowns and mantles. Short dresses were much
worn; they were invariably trimmed with cascades of lace. Silk stockings
were indispensable. Bows and cravats of muslin, or Breton lace, or
valenciennes, or point, were greatly used. Gloves with four buttons,
and “dowager” sunshades—so called because they were rather large and
made with long sticks—were quite a rage for several months. “Bonhomme,”
“Jardinier Galant,” “Louis XIV.,” and “Louis XV.” vests, formed a part of
nearly every costume. “Charles IX.,” “Marion Delorme,” and “Richelieu”
shoes were made with high heels like boots.
In order to give some idea of the cost of certain materials, it will
suffice to state that an actress at the Vaudeville theatre wore a gown at
a hundred francs the yard, and the rest in proportion. Gowns were made of
gold tissue and trimmed with lace, embroidered in colours.
Scarfs or drapery were fashionable for trimming dresses, and skirts were
plaited “à la réligieuse.” The scarfs were sometimes crossed so as to
form a tunic. Many “casaques” were made with waistcoats. Bodices were
made full, something like the old-fashioned bodices “à la Vierge.” There
was quite a rage for knotted fringes with beads, and natural flowers
for ball-dresses; but double tunics were gradually abandoned, though
square-cut bodices and “Louis XV.” sleeves were still worn.
Handkerchief-dresses, consisting entirely of Madras handkerchiefs, were
very artistically composed. I saw one in which seventy-two handkerchiefs
had been employed; another, in a simpler style, consisted of forty-eight
only. The plainest gown required four dozen. This was a whimsical
fashion, and was followed only by the most elegant women of society.
Frills and plaitings of lawn or muslin were much worn. Luxury was
carried to a great height in “lingerie” (underclothing). The “Mireille”
was a high chemisette of muslin and Valenciennes, with a double frill;
the “Yvonne” was of crape and Breton lace; the “Médicis,” a still more
elegant chemisette; the “Lamballe,” a fichu of surah trimmed with
plaits of black or white Breton lace, and the “Marie Thérèse” of “point
d’esprit” tulle with frills of Breton lace.
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