The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
Nordenskiold, the Swedish Navigator, and the discoverer of the north-east
passage, came to Paris, where he was received with all the honours due to
him. Gauze travelling veils, called “Nordenskiolds,” two yards long, and
trimmed with fringe, were worn in honour of the illustrious foreigner,
and all but supplanted the “merveilleux” tulle veils spangled with gold,
and the “odalisques,” of red tulle. The latter were very striking, but
were only becoming to dark women.
For mountain-climbing expeditions, very fine, small-meshed hair-nets
called “arachnéens” or cobweb nets, which kept the hair perfectly neat,
were very useful. Dust-cloaks in grey cashmere, or alpaca, called
“capucins,” were lined with red or striped surah, and were made with
peaked hoods lined in the same way.
The Art Exhibition in 1880 led to a complete revolution in buttons; they
were manufactured according to all the antique models. Those called
“Buffon,” were remarkable for elegance. Others consisted of real flowers,
or insects enclosed in glass; and lastly the “Wedgwood” buttons offered
the most exquisite miniature paintings to our delighted gaze, i.e. copies
of paintings on china by that celebrated English artist and manufacturer
of the eighteenth century.
During 1880, Fashion frequently borrowed her inspiration from Art, and
sought to imitate the works of the old masters. Antique designs, stuffs,
and lace of every kind, were constantly reproduced. More than one
duchess was the image of some figure of the Middle Ages, more than one
“bourgeoise” dressed herself like Margaret, in _Faust_, or draped her
shoulders in the “camail Régence.” In wet weather women of all ranks put
on Ulsters, or Derbys, a cloak made of flannel, or light cloth. They
resigned themselves to wearing hoods, when at, the seaside or in the
country. “Savoyard” and “Trianon” costumes were alternately fashionable.
Feathers were much used on bonnets, and flowers on the bodices of
dresses, and even on shoes and sunshades. A wreath of flowers was
sometimes worn as a necklace by young girls. Canadian otter fur was in
such request that the supply was exhausted, and plush of the same colour
was used as a substitute.
An ugly trinket, euphemistically designated a “porte-veine”
(luck-bringer), was introduced from Austria. This represented in fact,
St. Anthony’s companion, the pig, and its rivals were the wild boar, the
hippopotamus, and the elephant. It was hung on bracelets, mounted on
pins, and worn on the watch-chain. For my own part, I should certainly
have preferred the commonest field flower to such an ornament, even if
made of diamonds. Nor am I singular in my opinion; but, as I have said
before, opposition is powerless against the stream of Fashion, when it
bears along the majority of our “élégantes,” who are resolved not to be
daunted by any absurdity. The “porte-veine” is still in existence, in
spite of the disappearance of St. Anthony’s companion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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